Asymmetric Overlap-Hem Skirt with Elasticated Side Waistband

Name: Asymmetric Overlap-Hem Skirt with Elasticated Side Waistband
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5502
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5502

A mid-calf women's straight skirt with an asymmetric hem that gives a layered, overlapping line at the front and back, a waistband elasticated at the sides, a centre back zip and a full lining. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Asymmetric Overlap-Hem Skirt with Elasticated Side Waistband

A mid-calf women's straight skirt with an asymmetric hem that gives a layered, overlapping line at the front and back, a waistband elasticated at the sides, a centre back zip and a full lining.

When To Wear

For the office and daytime events with blouses, shirts and fitted jackets.
In spring and autumn with knitwear tucked in or worn over the waistband.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, narrowing slightly towards the hem.

Length: Mid-calf at the longest point.

Waist: Interfaced fold-over waistband with elastic stitched in along the sides, so the fabric gathers at the hips while the centre front and centre back stay flat. One button and buttonhole at the centre back.

Front: One piece with two darts, pressed towards the centre.

Back: Separate left and right back pieces joined by a centre back seam, with darts and a 20 cm zip.

Skirt: The hem curves up across the front and the back and drops at the side to a lower point, so the hemline looks like one layer lying over another. The extended side edges are topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.

Finishing: Hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched.

Lining: Full lining with its own front and left and right back pieces; pleats at the top of the lining stand in for the darts, and the zip opening of the lining is topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. An asymmetric hem, a centre back zip, a pleated lining joined at the waist and a waistband with elastic stitched in under tension.

Fabric Recommendations

Fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (waistband)
1 zip, 20 cm
1 button
Elastic tape

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Front Skirt – 1 piece
Left Back Skirt – 1 piece
Right Back Skirt – 1 piece
Waistband – 1 piece

From lining fabric:

Front Skirt Lining – 1 piece
Left Back Skirt Lining – 1 piece
Right Back Skirt Lining – 1 piece
From fusible interfacing: Waistband.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the Waistband.
Mark the darts on the Front Skirt and on the Left Back Skirt and Right Back Skirt. Stitch the darts. Press the front darts towards the center front and the back darts towards the center back.
Overlock the side edges of the Front Skirt and the back pieces, and the center back edges.
Stitch the center back seam (Left Back Skirt to Right Back Skirt) up to the zip notch. Press the seam open and press back the zip opening allowances.
Overlock the lower edge of the skirt, turn up the hem, press and topstitch.
Insert the zip into the center back seam.
Stitch the side seams and press them open. Topstitch along the extended side edges of the skirt 0.5 cm from the edge.
Overlock the center back edges of the Left Back Skirt Lining and Right Back Skirt Lining. Stitch the center back seam of the lining up to the zip notch. Press the seam open and press back the zip opening allowances. Topstitch around the opening 0.5 cm from the edge. Stitch the side seams of the lining and overlock them. Press the lining side seams towards the back. Overlock, turn up and topstitch the lining hem. Press the hem. Fold the pleats at the upper edge of the lining and secure each with a 2 cm line of stitching 0.5 cm from the upper edge. Place the lining inside the skirt, wrong sides together, matching the side seams and the darts to the pleats of the lining. Align the upper edges of the lining and skirt and stitch them together 0.5 cm from the edge.
Press the Waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and overlock the lower edge of the inner half.
Cut the elastic to your measurement. Secure the elastic across the waistband at the side sections and stitch it on, stretching the elastic along the waistband. Stitch the waistband to the upper edge of the skirt and stitch the waistband ends. Stitch the lower edge of the inner waistband in the ditch of the waistband seam. Work the buttonhole and sew on the button.