Empire-Seam Double-Breasted Spring Jacket
Introducing a chic women's sewing pattern for a double-breasted spring jacket, featuring elegant panel seaming that creates a flattering empire-style waistline and a structured silhouette.
When To Wear
This stylish jacket is perfect for adding a touch of tailored elegance to various occasions:
- Smart Casual Outings: Ideal for lunch dates, spring strolls, or casual meet-ups.
- Office & Professional Wear: a sophisticated alternative to a blazer for a polished work ensemble.
- Transitional Weather: Provides a perfect light layer for cooler spring and early autumn days.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Tailored and fitted through the bodice, falling to a short, hip-length hem.
Neckline & Collar: Classic notched lapel with a sharp collar, framing the face elegantly.
Closure: Double-breasted front secured with a prominent button closure.
Sleeves: Long, set-in sleeves, shaped for a clean line, finished with a smart cuff detail.
Seaming: Distinctive empire-style horizontal seam across the front, integrated with vertical princess seams for a structured and flattering fit. The back features complementary panel seams.
Hem: Straight hemline for a neat and crisp finish.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires confident sewing skills, including collar & lapel construction, double-breasted closure, panel seaming, and lining installation.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose outerwear fabrics that offer body and drape well for a structured yet comfortable feel:
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 7 buttons
- Lining fabric
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back neck facing – 1 qty
- Back yoke – 1 qty
- Back center – 2 qty
- Back side – 2 qty
- Lower collar – 1 qty
- Upper collar – 1 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Front yoke – 2 qty
- Front center – 2 qty
- Front facing – 2 qty
- Upper sleeve – 2 qty
- Lower sleeve – 2 qty
- Sleeve insert – 2 qty
- Cuff – 2 qty
- From lining fabric:
- Back yoke – 1 qty
- Back center – 2 qty
- Back side – 2 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Front center – 2 qty
- Upper sleeve – 2 qty
- Lower sleeve – 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, front center, lower collar, front yoke, back neck facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facing, front center, lower collar, front yoke, and back neck facing.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the lower collar to the upper collar. Trim, turn out the collar corners. Press the collar.
- Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front and back. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Mark and stitch the darts on the front yoke. Press the darts towards the center of the front yoke. Attach the yoke to the front and press open the seam. Attach the yoke to the back and press open the seam.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the marked line. Stitch from the front side upwards to the notch, which indicates the end of the collar insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the front facing to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge: in the fastener area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Remove pins. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Insert the lower collar into the jacket neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline of the front facing and back neck facing. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Attach the sleeve insert to the sleeve. Press open the attachment seam. Attach the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Press open the attachment seam. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Insert the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press up the lining allowances. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facing and neckline facing.
- Mark and press up the jacket hem. Finish the sleeve and jacket hem with the lining. Secure the lining to the garment at the waist seams. Turn the jacket to the right side through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- Mark and make buttonholes on the front panels. Sew on buttons. Mark and sew on a hidden button.
