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Minervainervabeta
#5491
#5493

Utility Bomber Jacket with Pockets

Pattern #5492
Tech. Description

Women’s Utility Zip-Front Jacket with Front Yoke, Patch Pockets with Buttoned Flaps & Zipper Pocket

Introducing a women's sewing pattern for the modern cargo-style jacket – Structured Function with Urban Ease.

When To Wear

This jacket is made for movement and everyday practicality—without sacrificing a sharp silhouette. Ideal for urban wear and travel layering:

  • Casual City Days: Toss it over a tee or knit for a relaxed, elevated street look.
  • Travel or Transit: With secure pockets and ribbed finishes, it’s perfect for layering on the go.
  • Midseason Utility: Lightweight enough for spring and fall, it brings structure and warmth without bulk.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Slightly boxy with a clean, structured finish.

Collar: Classic shirt collar with upper and lower collars.

Closure: Full-length separating zipper at front.

Pockets:

  • Right breast patch pocket with flap
  • Vertical zipper pocket on left breast
  • Two large front patch pockets

Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves finished with rib-knit cuffs.

Waistband: Ribbed knit waistband.

Style: a functional cargo windbreaker with clean lines and everyday utility.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Suitable for sewists confident in topstitching, zippers, and lined construction.

Fabric Recommendations

This pattern is best suited for technical or midweight woven fabrics with light structure:

  • Rainwear fabric
  • Coated cotton
  • Twill
  • Lightweight denim
  • Rib knit for cuffs and waistband
  • Poly lining or lightweight satin for interior

Additional Supplies

  • Fusible interfacing
  • Separating front zipper
  • Small zipper for chest pocket
  • 5 buttons for flaps and tab detail
  • Lining fabric

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

  1. Back - 2 pieces
  2. Left Front - 1 piece
  3. Right Front - 1 piece
  4. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
  5. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
  6. Sleeve – 2 pieces
  7. Upper Collar – 1 piece
  8. Lower Collar - 1 piece
  9. Waistband Placket (marked on pattern as "Waistband Tab") – 2 pieces
  10. Pocket – 2 pieces
  11. Pocket Side – 2 pieces
  12. Front Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
  13. Breast Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
  14. Breast Pocket – 1 piece

From Rib Knit:

  1. Back Belt – 1 piece
  2. Front Belt – 2 pieces
  3. Cuff - 2 pieces

From Lining:

  1. Upper Pocket Small Lining (for Zipper Pocket) – 1 piece
  2. Upper Pocket Big Lining (for Zipper Pocket) - 1 piece
  3. Left Front lining (use Left Front main pattern piece joined with Front Yoke) – 1 piece
  4. Right Front Lining (use Right Front pattern piece joined with Yoke) - 1 piece
  5. Back lining – use Back pattern, cut 2.
  6. Sleeve lining – use Sleeve pattern, cut 2.

From Fusible Interfacing:

For drafting fusible interfacing patterns, use main patterns:

  1. Center Front Facing – cut 2.
  2. Lower Collar – cut 1.
  3. All Flaps – cut 1 of each.
  4. Waist Tab – cut 2.
  5. Zipper Pocket Entrance – cut a rectangle 2 cm longer than a pocket entrance, 3 cm wide.

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

  • Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
  • Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
  • For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Preparation

Fuse Interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to all pieces marked for reinforcement: Center Front Facing, Lower Collar, all Flaps, Waist Tabs and left front zipper pocket entrance. Fuse from the wrong side using a hot iron.

  1. Collar
  • Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together.
  • Stitch around the outer edges, clip corners, turn right side out, and press.
  1. Breast Pocket Flap & Fastening Loop

Loop

  • Cut a narrow strip of fabric for the Loop.
  • Fold the strip lengthwise wrong sides together, turn raw edges inward, and topstitch 0.1 cm from the folded edge.
  • Fold the strip into a small triangle and secure the base with a short row of stitching.
  • Mark placement and topstitch the loop to the lower edge of Breast Pocket Flap.

Flap

  • Place the Breast Pocket Flap pieces right sides together and stitch around the outer edges.
  • Turn through the top edge, press, and topstitch 0.2 cm from the edge.

Pocket

  • Mark breast pocket placement on the Right Front.
  • Overlock the outer edges of the breast pocket.
  • Press the upper seam allowance of the breast pocket to the wrong side and topstitch 0.5 cm from the fold.
  • Press remaining edges along the breast pocket pattern piece template.
  • Position pocket on the Right Front as marked and topstitch, reinforcing the corners.
  • Position the flap in the yoke seam and sew while attaching the Right Front Yoke.
  • Overlock the yoke seam allowances, press upward, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
  1. Lower Front Pockets
  • Mark the pocket placement on both Fronts.
  • Prepare the Pocket Flaps the same way as the breast flap.
  • Overlock the side edge of the pocket side piece.
  • Attach the pocket side piece to the side and lower pocket edges, then overlock the seam allowances.
  • Overlock the upper pocket edge, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
  • Place pocket on markings, turn in the edges of pocket side and topstitch in place.
  • Position the flap facing upward, stitch, turn down, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
  1. Zipper Pocket (Left Front)
  • Mark the zipper pocket placement on the Left Front.
  • Reinforce the pocket opening with fusible interfacing.
  • Cut the opening along the marked line, clipping diagonally toward the ends.
  • Turn the seam allowances to the wrong side and press neatly.
  • Position the zipper under the opening with teeth visible and stitch in place.
  • Attach the pocket bags to the zipper seam allowances, stitch the pocket bag closed, and overlock the edges.
  1. Front Yoke

Attach the Left Front Yoke to the Left Front, overlock the seam, press upward, and topstitch 0.5 cm.

  1. Waistband Placket ("Waistband Tab") & Back and Front Belts
  • Attach the Waistband Placket to the Front Belt piece.
  • Press the seam to center front and topstitch.
  • Sew the Front Belt to the Fronts.
  • Sew the center back seam.
  • Attach the Back Belt to the Back.
  1. Front Closure
  • Place Fronts right sides together, align yoke seams, and measure front edge length.
  • Sew the zipper to the front edges, aligning teeth with the fold line.
  • Place the Center Front Facing right sides together with the Front and stitch along the front edge, sewing from the side of the Front.
  • Turn the facing to the inside, carefully push out the edge, and press.
  1. Main Assembly
  • Sew the shoulder and side seams.
  • Press seam allowances open.
  • Insert the Lower Collar into the neckline and stitch.
  • Sew sleeve seams and press allowances open.
  • Set in sleeves, matching notches.
  1. Lining
  • Sew the lining pieces and set in sleeves. Press seam allowances toward the lining.
  • Attach the lining to the Upper Collar and to the inner edges of the facings, stopping 1 cm short of the ends.
  • Press the neckline seams open and understitch close to the seam.
  1. Belts & Facings
  • Sew the belts to the lower edge of the facings.
  • Stitch the lower corners of the belts, clip seam allowances, turn right side out, and press.
  1. Cuffs
  • Sew the short seams of the Cuffs.
  • Fold each cuff wrong sides together lengthwise and press.
  • Attach the cuffs to the sleeve hems, aligning the cuff seam with the sleeve seam.
  • Overlock the upper cuff edge together with the sleeve and lining.
  1. Finishing
  • Topstitch 0.5 cm along the zipper.
  • Work buttonholes on the lower pocket flaps as marked.
  • Sew buttons to match the buttonholes.

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