Collared Belted Jacket with Epaulettes
Introducing a stylish and versatile women's jacket pattern, featuring a classic shirt collar on a stand, zippered chest pockets, flap patch pockets and a self-fabric belt for a structured yet chic silhouette.
When To Wear:
- Everyday Smart Casual: Perfect for elevated daily wear, offering both style and functionality for running errands or casual outings.
- Transitional Weather: Made from raincoat fabric, it is ideal for spring, autumn, or cooler evenings.
- Utility Chic Styling: Pair with skirts or trousers for a modern, fashion-forward look inspired by military and workwear aesthetics.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A semi-fitted, hip-length jacket with a clean, structured appearance, belted at the natural waist.
Neckline & Collar: A classic shirt collar with rounded tips, set on a collar stand.
Closure: Center front button closure.
Sleeves: Long, set-in sleeves finished with band cuffs.
Pockets: Two vertical zippered welt pockets on the chest and two large patch pockets with flaps at the hips.
Back: A clean back with a center back seam.
Waist: A self-fabric belt with a buckle cinches the waist and is held in place by belt loops at the side seams.
Details: Buttoned epaulettes on the shoulders add a military-inspired touch.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with a collar on a stand, zippered welt pockets, patch pockets with flaps, faced front edges and buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose raincoat (trench) fabrics that offer structure and drape well:
- Raincoat fabrics such as gabardine, cotton or poly-cotton trench twill, or other dense water-repellent coat fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (for pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing
- 7 buttons (for the front closure and epaulettes)
- 1 buckle (for the belt)
- 2 zippers (for the chest pockets)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Front Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
- Bigger Pocket Bag Of Upper Pocket – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Belt-Loop – 1 piece
- Waistband – 1 piece
- Shoulder Strap – 4 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Smaller Pocket Bag Of Upper Pocket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Front Pocket Flap, Shoulder Strap, Center Front Facing, Cuff, and stay tape for the chest pocket openings.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Front Pocket Flap, Shoulder Strap and Cuff.
- Place the Collar pieces right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Trim the allowances, turn the collar right side out and push out the corners. Press the collar.
- Mark the placement of the upper (chest) pocket on the Front. Reinforce the pocket opening with stay tape. Cut the pocket welt strips. Fold the welt strips in half, wrong sides together, and press. Mark a guide line on the welts parallel to the fold for attaching them. Mark guide lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the welts. Stitch the welts to the Front, ending the stitching exactly at the end lines of the pocket marking. Check from the wrong side that the stitching lines are parallel. Cut the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts toward the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the welts through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges and adjust the welt ends. Secure the triangles at the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch. Place the zipper under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch in the zipper and stitch the Smaller Pocket Bag Of Upper Pocket and the Bigger Pocket Bag Of Upper Pocket to the welt allowances. Stitch the pocket bags together and serge.
- Place the Front Pocket Flap pieces right sides together and stitch. Trim the allowances at the corners and turn right side out. Press the flap to its finished shape. Serge the upper edge of the flap.
- Serge the upper edge of the Pocket. Press the upper allowance of the Pocket to the wrong side and topstitch. Serge the outer edge of the Pocket and press the allowances under using the pattern.
- Mark the placement of the Pocket and flap on the Front. Topstitch the Pocket to the Front 0.2 cm from its edge. Stitch the flap at the marking, flip it down and topstitch.
- Place the Shoulder Strap pieces right sides together and stitch around, leaving the upper (armhole) edge open. Turn the strap right side out, press and topstitch around the edge.
- Fold the Waistband (belt) in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch on three sides, leaving a small opening for turning. Turn the belt right side out and press. Topstitch around the belt 0.5 cm from the edge. Slide the buckle onto the belt. Fold the end of the belt to the wrong side around the buckle bar to form a loop and topstitch.
- Serge the outer (long) edge of the Center Front Facing. Place the facing on the Front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the marked line, stitching from the Front side. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the Front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the allowances at the lower corners. Remove the pins. Turn the facings to the inside, straighten the seams and press. Baste the neckline edges of the Front and facing together.
- Serge the center back edges. Stitch the center back seam and press it open.
- Serge the side and shoulder edges. Stitch the shoulder and side seams and press them open. Place the Shoulder Strap on the shoulder seam and baste it to the armhole edge 0.5 cm from the edge. Serge the lower edge of the jacket.
- Fold the Belt-Loop strip lengthwise in half, right sides together, align the edges and stitch 0.5–0.7 cm from the edges. Turn right side out, rolling the seam to the fold or forming a 0.1–0.2 cm wide edge toward the inside, and press. Cut the strip into belt loops according to the markings. Mark the positions and topstitch the belt loops over the side seams at the waistline.
- Stitch the Stand Collar pieces together with the Collar sandwiched between them.
- Stitch the inner stand with the collar to the neckline. Turn under the open edge of the outer stand and topstitch it into the stand attachment seam. Topstitch along the collar. Tack the Center Front Facings to the shoulder seams with a 1 cm bar tack.
- Serge the Sleeve edges. Stitch the sleeve seams and press them open.
- Fold the Cuff lengthwise in half, wrong sides together, and press. Unfold it, stitch the short ends into a ring and press the seam open. Press the cuff in half again.
- Stitch the Cuffs to the lower edges of the sleeves and serge the cuff and sleeve allowances together. Topstitch the cuff seam allowance onto the sleeve.
- Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve cap.
- Turn up and topstitch the hem of the jacket.
- Make buttonholes on the right Front and sew buttons on the left Front. Mark the positions and sew a button on each Shoulder Strap.
