Yoked Pleated Mini Skirt with Flapped Pockets
A women's denim mini skirt with a deep yoke, pressed pleats all round that are stitched down for 15 cm from the top edge, and two patch pockets with rounded flaps on the front. Zip in the left side seam and belt loops on the yoke.
When To Wear
- In spring and summer with a T-shirt, a shirt or a knit top.
- In autumn with tights, boots and a sweater.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the yoke and hips, flaring out from the pleats.
Length: Mini, above the knee.
Waist: Deep front and back yokes, interfaced and faced with a second yoke, the upper edge understitched 0.2 cm from the seam. Belt loops topstitched onto the yoke.
Skirt: Front and back panels laid in pleats, pressed and stitched down 15 cm from the top edge.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the front, topstitched 0.2 cm from the edge, under flaps with rounded corners topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, each with a button.
Closure: Zip in the left side seam, catching the side edges of the yokes.
Finishing: Side seams pressed open; hem overlocked, turned and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Marking and stitching pleats evenly, a faced yoke, flapped patch pockets, a side zip and belt loops in denim.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front and back yokes)
- Zip for the left side seam
- 2 buttons for the pocket flaps
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Pocket flap – 4 pieces
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 1 piece
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 2 pieces
- Belt loop – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing: front and back yoke.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the front and back yokes with fusible interfacing.
- Overlock the side edges of the front and back panels. Stitch and press open the right side seam of the panels. Overlock the bottom edge of the panels. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side.
- Mark, fold, and press the pleats on the front and back panels. Stitch the pleats for 15 cm from the top edge.
- Overlock the left side edge of the outer yokes. Stitch and press open the right side seam of the inner and outer yokes. Overlock the bottom edge of the inner yokes.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim and turn out the seam allowances of the rounded corners of the flaps. Topstitch along the outer contour of the flaps 0.5 cm from the edge. Overlock the top edge of the flap.
- Overlock the outer contour of the pocket and press it according to the pattern. Topstitch the top edge onto the pocket, mark the pocket placement on the front, and topstitch it along the contour 0.2 cm from the pocket edge. Place the flap to the marking and topstitch it. Turn the flap to the right side and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Attach the outer yokes to the skirt, aligning the side seams. Fold the yoke pieces right sides together and stitch around the top edge of the yokes. Topstitch the stitching seam onto the lower yoke 0.2 cm from the stitching seam. Fold the yokes to the wrong side and press the top stitched edge of the yokes.
- Stitch the left side seam up to the notch for the zipper. Press the zipper openings and insert the zipper, catching the side edges of the yokes. Topstitch the lower yoke into the seam of attaching the upper yokes. Topstitch the bottom edge of the skirt.
- Fold the belt loop lengthwise in half, right sides together, align the edges and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn out, straighten the seam, positioning it on the fold or forming a 0.1-0.2 cm wide piping on the inside, and press. Cut the belt loops, mark the placement of the belt loops, and topstitch the belt loops onto the skirt.