Skirt with Yoke & Pintucks
A women's skirt with a deep hip yoke and a row of narrow pleats on the front and back that are stitched down to the notches and released towards the hem. Belt loops on the yoke and a zip in the left side seam.
When To Wear
- For the office with a blouse or a fitted knit top.
- In spring and summer with a shirt or a T-shirt and flat shoes.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the yoke, with fullness released from the stitched pleats in the lower part of the skirt.
Length: About knee length.
Waist: Deep shaped yoke, front and back, interfaced and faced with a second yoke; the upper edge is understitched 0.2 cm from the seam. Belt loops are topstitched onto the yoke.
Skirt: Front and back panels with vertical pleats stitched down from the yoke seam to the notches, then left free.
Closure: Zip in the left side seam; the inner yoke is slip-stitched by hand to the zip tape.
Finishing: Side seams overlocked and pressed open; deep hem overlocked and stitched by hand.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Marking and stitching many pleats evenly, a faced yoke, a side zip finished by hand and belt loops.
Fabric Recommendations
Thin fabric of natural fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front and back yokes)
- Zip for the left side seam
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Belt loop – 1 piece
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 1 piece
- Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front Yoke, Back Yoke.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the front and back yokes with fusible interfacing.
- Mark the pleats on the front and back panels. Stitch the pleats up to the notches on the front and back panels.
- Attach the front yoke to the front. Press the seam allowances towards the yoke.
- Attach the back yoke to the back. Press the seam allowances towards the yoke.
- Overlock the side edges. Stitch the side seams of the front and back panels, leaving an opening in the left side seam for the zipper. Press open the side seams and press the zipper opening. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch the right side seam of the interfaced front and back yokes. Press open the seam. Overlock the outer edge of the yokes.
- Fold the yokes with the upper edge of the skirt right sides together and stitch. Topstitch the seam allowance onto the interfaced yokes at a distance of 0.2 cm from the stitching line. Fold the yokes to the wrong side and press the upper finished edge of the skirt. Fold the side edges of the front and back yokes and hand-stitch to the zipper. Topstitch the overlocked edge of the yokes into the attaching seam.
- Fold the belt loop lengthwise in half, right sides together, align the edges, and stitch at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn out, straighten the seam, positioning it on the fold, or create a 0.1-0.2 cm wide edge on the inside and press. Cut the belt loops and topstitch onto the yokes.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the front and back panels. Press up the hem allowance and hand-stitch.
