Fitted Long Sleeve Western Yoke Blouse
A women's fitted shirt-style blouse with pointed western yokes at the front and back, a shirt collar on a stand, a six-button front and long sleeves with slit cuffs.
When To Wear
- With jeans or chinos for everyday wear.
- Tucked into a skirt or trousers for the office.
- In spring and summer in lightweight linen.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped with darts on the fronts and back and a centre back seam.
Length: Hip length, straight hem.
Collar: Pointed shirt collar on a separate stand, topstitched along the edge.
Front: Pointed front yokes topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam; side bust darts and vertical waist darts below the yoke.
Closure: Six buttons on a separate placket turned to the inside and topstitched.
Sleeves: Long, set-in with an eased cap, finished with cuffs that have a short slit; the cuff edge and slit are topstitched.
Back: Two back pieces joined by a centre back seam, with waist darts, under a one-piece pointed back yoke.
Finishing: Shoulder seams pressed towards the back; hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Pointed yokes, a collar on a stand, slit cuffs, a set-in sleeve with an eased cap.
Fabric Recommendations
Fine linen or blended fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (plackets, upper collar, cuffs, collar stand)
- 6 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: placket, upper collar, cuff, stand collar.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the plackets, upper collar, cuffs, and stand collar.
- Mark the darts on the front and back. Stitch the darts. Press the back darts towards the center back and the front darts towards the center front.
- Attach the front yoke to the front. Overlock the seam and press it towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the center back seam. Overlock it and press towards the right back.
- Attach the back yoke to the back. Overlock the seam and press it towards the yoke.
- Press the outer edge of the placket under by 1 cm. Place the placket and the front right sides together and stitch along the front edge. Turn the placket to the wrong side of the front and press. Topstitch the pressed edge of the placket to the front.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the blouse. Overlock the seams and press them towards the back.
- Stitch the upper collar and lower collar together, trim the corners, and turn the collar right side out.
- Stitch the stand collar pieces together, sandwiching the collar between them.
- Stitch the lower stand with the collar to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the upper stand, and topstitch it into the seam attaching the lower stand. Topstitch along the collar.
- Stitch the sleeve seams.
- Fold the cuffs in half crosswise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides up to the notches. Clip the seam allowance at the slit. Fold the cuffs in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the edges of the slit.
- Attach the cuffs to the lower edge of the sleeves and overlock the upper edge of the cuff together with the sleeve.
- Topstitch the cuff seam allowance onto the sleeve, and topstitch along the lower edge of the cuff and the edges of the slit.
- Set in the sleeves, easing the cap.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
- Overlock, turn up and topstitch the lower edge of the garment.
