Maxi Denim Skirt with Patch Pocket and Side Slit
A long, straight women's denim skirt with centre front and centre back seams, a zip fly with a button at the waist edge, one patch pocket with two trim pieces and a high slit in the left side seam. No waistband: the waist is finished with facings.
When To Wear
- Everyday wear in spring, summer and autumn, with T-shirts, shirts and knit tops.
- With boots or trainers in cooler weather; the side slit leaves room to walk.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, narrow column shape.
Length: Long, to the lower calf.
Waist: No waistband. The top edge is finished with front and back facings, interfaced and understitched 0.2 cm from the seam. Two darts on the front and two on the back, pressed towards the centre.
Closure: Centre front zip fly with a 20 cm zipper, a cut-on fly extension and a separate fly shield; one buttonhole on the right front and one button on the left.
Pockets: One patch pocket on the left front, with a rounded lower edge. Pocket Trimming 1 is topstitched to its upper edge and Pocket Trimming 2 to its lower rounded edge; the trims are topstitched 0.5 cm from the side edges and 1 cm from the lower fold.
Back: Centre back seam, pressed open and topstitched on both sides.
Skirt: High slit in the left side seam.
Finishing: Seams overlocked and pressed open; topstitching along the centre seams, the fly and the slit. Hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched (3 cm hem allowance).
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A zip fly with a fly shield, a faced waist without a waistband, a patch pocket with applied trims and visible topstitching on denim.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front and back facings, fly shield)
- 1 zipper, 20 cm long
- 1 button
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back Skirt – 2 pieces
- Front Skirt – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 1 piece
- Pocket Trimming 1 – 1 piece
- Pocket Trimming 2 – 1 piece
- Back Facing – 1 piece
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Button Catch – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back Facing – 1 piece
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Button Catch – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Back Facing, Front Facings and Button Catch.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the Front Skirt and Back Skirt pieces. Press the darts towards the center front and center back.
- Overlock the side edges of Pocket Trimming 1 and Pocket Trimming 2, press them under and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Overlock the lower edge of the trims, fold it under and topstitch 1 cm from the fold. Topstitch Pocket Trimming 1 to the upper edge of the Pocket and Pocket Trimming 2 to its lower rounded edge. Overlock the outer edge of the patch pocket, fold and press the allowances along the pattern lines. Mark the pocket placement on the Front Skirt, place the pocket on the markings and topstitch it in place.
- Overlock the side and center edges of the Front Skirt and Back Skirt pieces.
- Stitch the center back seam and press open. Stitch the center front seam up to the notch and press open.
- Stitch the side seams of the Front Facings and Back Facing and press open. Overlock the lower edge of the facings.
- Stitch the side seams of the skirt and press open.
- Press the cut-on fly extensions to the wrong side. Press under the center edge of the Front Facing. Place the facing on the upper edge of the skirt, fold the cut-on fly extension back over it to the right side of the skirt, and stitch along the upper edge. Understitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Trim and turn out the upper right corner.
- Stitch the zipper under the folded edge of the left fly extension, close to the edge. Stitch the other zipper tape to the cut-on fly extension of the right half. Fold the Button Catch (fly shield) in half lengthwise and stitch the short lower and upper ends; turn it right side out. Topstitch the left fly extension with the zipper onto the Button Catch. Topstitch the right edge of the opening, catching the extension underneath. Tack the overlocked edge of the facings to the skirt seams.
- Overlock the skirt hem, fold up and topstitch. Press the finished hem.
- Make a buttonhole on the right front and sew the button on the left.
