Utility Denim Coat with Stand Collar and Utility Patch Pockets with flaps
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a striking utility coat, featuring a tailored stand collar, a fitted waist, and functional patch pockets throughout.
When To Wear
This utility coat is designed for versatile wear, making it an ideal choice for:
- Casual Chic: Elevate everyday denim wear with a structured, stylish coat.
- Transitional Seasons: Provides warmth & coverage for spring & autumn outings.
- Statement Outerwear: Ideal for creating a distinctive, fashion-forward look.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Long and structured, fitted through the waist, with a straight fall to the hem.
Neckline / Collar: Notched lapel leading to a smart stand collar.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a button closure, featuring nine visible buttons.
Sleeves: Two-piece long sleeves, shaped for a tailored fit, with one utility patch pocket with a flap on the upper left sleeve.
Pockets: Two large rectangular utility patch pockets with flaps on the lower front.
Back: Features vertical panel seams and a horizontal waist seam for a tailored fit.
Waist: Defined by a prominent horizontal band that accentuates the silhouette.
Length: Maxi length, falling to the ankles.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires precise tailoring for the structured collar, multi-panel construction, and accurate placement of multiple flap pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose sturdy, structured woven fabrics that hold shape:
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 9 buttons
- Lining fabric
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back neckline facing – 1 qty
- Collar stand – 2 qty
- Lower pocket facing – 2 qty
- Lower patch pocket – 2 qty
- Lower flap – 4 qty
- Upper pocket facing – 1 qty
- Upper patch pocket – 1 qty
- Upper flap – 2 qty
- Back trim – 2 qty
- Front trim – 4 qty
- Upper back – 2 qty
- Central back – 2 qty
- Side of back – 2 qty
- Side of front – 2 qty
- Upper front – 2 qty
- Central front – 2 qty
- Underlap – 2 qty
- Shoulder tab - 4 qty
- Upper sleeve – 2 qty
- Lower sleeve – 2 qty
- From lining fabric:
- Central back – 2 qty
- Upper back – 2 qty
- Upper front – 2 qty
- Side of back - 2 qty
- Side of front – 2 qty
- Central front – 2 qty
- Upper sleeve – 2 qty
- Lower sleeve – 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing: underlap, lower collar stand, vent of side of back, underflap, front trim, back trim.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the underlap, lower collar stand, vent area of the side of the back, underflap, front trim, and back trim.
- Place the upper collar stand and lower collar stand right sides together and stitch the lower collar stand to the upper. Trim, turn out the collar stand corners.
- Stitch and press open the side seam allowances of the front and back trims. Fold the front and back trims right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim excess fabric at the rounded ends of the front trim, turn out and press the front and back trims.
- Stitch and press open the darts of the upper front and back. Stitch and press open the princess seam of the side and central front. Stitch and press open the princess seam of the side and middle back.
- Place the shoulder tab pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, leaving an opening for turning. Turn out and press the shoulder tab.
- Stitch and press open the side seam allowances of the upper front and back. Stitch and press open the shoulder seam allowances of the upper front and back. Place the stitched trim with the upper front and back, align the seam allowances and baste.
- Stitch the center seam allowance of the central back up to the vent. Press the lower vent seam allowance 1 cm. Press open the center back seam, and press the vent. Topstitch the center back seam diagonally at the upper end of the vent according to the markings, catching the vent allowance.
- Stitch and press open the side seam allowances of the side of the front and back. Attach the upper front and back to the stitched lower front and back. Remove basting from the front and back trims.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve.
- Place the upper flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Turn out the flap through the upper open seam allowance. Straighten the seams and topstitch a double decorative stitch 0.2 cm from the flap edge. The processing of the lower flap is similar. Mark the pocket placement on the sleeve. Overlock the side seam allowance of the upper pocket facing. Stitch the upper pocket facing to the side and lower seam allowances of the pocket and overlock. Turn under and topstitch the upper seam allowance of the pocket. On the pocket facing, create a pleat and secure it to the pocket with a vertical bar tack 1-1.5 cm. Place the pocket on the marking and topstitch it. Place the flap on the marking and topstitch it. Turn the flap to the right side and topstitch 0.2 cm from the topstitching seam. The processing of the lower pocket is similar.
- Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem.
- Place the underlap on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge line. Stitching is done from the front side up to the notch, which defines the end of the collar stand insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the underlaps to the central front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower edge corners. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten the seams and topstitch a double decorative stitch 0.2 cm from the edge. Stitch and press open the side seam allowances of the back neckline facing and underlap.
- Insert the lower collar stand into the coat neckline, and attach the lower collar stand to the back neckline facing and underlap.
- Baste the shoulder tab to the upper armhole seam allowance. Insert the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches. Remove basting.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam, insert the sleeves. Press the lining seams. Attach the lining to the inner seam allowances of the underlaps and the back neckline facing. Press open the seam allowances of the collar stand insertion seams and secure them close to the seams.
- Attach the coat lining to the underlap and the back neckline facing. Turn under the lining sleeves and attach them to the hem allowance of the coat sleeve, turn down the excess lining fabric and press. Turn the coat right side out. Smooth out the lining, pin the side seams to the coat's side seams and carefully cut along the vent seam allowances, see
