Frog-Closure Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL (side) – 2 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL (side) – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
5. FRONT FACING – 2 QTY
6. COLLAR – 2 QTY
7. SLEEVE (upper part) – 2 QTY
8. SLEEVE (lower part) – 2 QTY
9. SLEEVE FACING (lower part) – 2 QTY
10. SLEEVE FACING (lower part) – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL (side) – 2 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL (side) – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
5. SLEEVE (upper part) – 2 QTY
6. SLEEVE (lower part) – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, undercollar, SLEEVE FACING (lower part), SLEEVE FACING (upper part).
• Hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: side FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL, center FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front facing, SLEEVE FACING (lower part), and SLEEVE FACING (upper part). Hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: center FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL, side FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL.
2. Place the upper COLLAR and undercollar right sides together and stitch the undercollar to the upper COLLAR. Trim and turn out the COLLAR corners.
3. Stitch and press open the vertical darts on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL.
4. Place the front facing on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which indicates the end of the COLLAR attachment. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the FRONT PANEL precisely along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Topstitch the front facing SEAM ALLOWANCE: in the fastener area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side and straighten the seams.
5. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
6. Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams.
7. Attach the undercollar to the jacket neckline, and stitch the upper COLLAR to the front facing.
8. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE up to the NOTCH. Stitch and press open the side edges of the SLEEVE FACINGS up to the NOTCHES. Place the stitched FACINGS on the SLEEVE hem right sides together and stitch along the lower and side edges up to the NOTCH. Stitch the front edge of the SLEEVE and the side edges of the FACINGS with one continuous stitch. Press open the front seam of the SLEEVE and FACINGS. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the FACINGS at the corners and turn out the FACINGS, straightening the seams. Press the FACINGS.
9. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
10. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the right front SLEEVE seam. Press the LINING. Stitch the LINING to the inner and shoulder edges of the front facings, as well as the upper COLLAR. Press open the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure them close to the seams. Stitch the SLEEVE LINING to the lower edge of the SLEEVE and the jacket hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening left in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE closed.
11. Sew decorative fasteners to the FRONT PANELS according to the markings.