Professional made-to-measure digital sewing patterns — PDF · PLT · DXF AAMA
Introducing a women’s sewing pattern for a fitted tailcoat featuring a sculpted waist, contoured panel construction, and back tails — Classical Tailoring with a Feminine Architectural Silhouette.
This tailcoat is designed as a statement tailored garment, suitable for:
Formal & Evening Wear
An expressive outer layer for formal events, performances, or ceremonial styling.
Theatrical & Editorial Styling
Ideal for costume design, stage wear, or fashion editorials requiring historical references with sharp tailoring.
Conceptual Tailoring
Suitable for designers exploring structured silhouettes rooted in classical menswear adapted to the female form.
Silhouette
Fitted, waist-shaped tailcoat with a sharply contoured torso and back tails.
Collar
Classic tailored collar constructed from upper and lower collar pieces, designed to frame the neckline with precision.
Closure
Single-breasted front closure with 3 buttons, emphasizing the structured front and waist shaping.
Sleeves
Two-piece set-in sleeves with shaped construction and decorative sleeve vents finished with smaller buttons.
Pockets
Mock welt pockets with flaps positioned at the waist, integrated into the front panel construction.
Back
Multi-panel back construction with shaped seams, attached tail sections and center back vent with self-facing, creating volume and movement in the elongated silhouette.
Advanced. This pattern requires confident tailoring skills, including precise collar construction, flap pocket execution, vent assembly, accurate alignment of shaped seams and tails and attaching the lining.
Choose fabrics that support structure and tailoring precision:
These materials ensure crisp shaping, durability, and a refined finish appropriate for a tailcoat.
From Main Fabric:
From Lining Fabric:
Lining pieces are cut using the corresponding main pattern pieces with the following modifications:
Important:
Back lining pieces are cut without the width of the Back Neckline Facing and the vent. The lining includes a center back ease pleat to allow movement and prevent strain during wear.
Front lining pieces are cut without the width of the Center Front Facing.
Sleeve lining pieces are cut without the width of the sleeve vents.
Pocket Underlay: The length must match the welt opening between the marked stitching lines.
The recommended width is 4–6 cm.
Cut the following using the corresponding main pattern pieces:
Before cutting your fabric:
Apply fusible interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Center Fronts, armhole areas of the Side Front and Side Back, vent extensions, Lower Collar, and sleeve hem allowances.
Staystitch the neckline and armholes to prevent stretching.
Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together, matching all notches.
Stitch along the outer edges.
Trim and grade the seam allowances, clip the corners, turn right side out, and press, rolling the seam slightly to the underside.
Stitch the Tail pieces to the Side Back pieces.
Press the seam allowances open.
Stitch the shaped panel seams joining the Center Front to the Side Front, and the Center Back to the Side Back.
Press the seam allowances open.
Place each pair of Flap pieces right sides together.
Stitch around the outer edges, leaving the upper edge open.
Trim the seam allowances, clip curves if needed, then turn the flaps right side out and press.
Mark the pocket placement on the assembled front.
Reinforce the pocket opening with a strip of fusible interfacing cut on the straight grain.
Fold the Pocket Welts in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Mark a guide line on each welt parallel to the fold for stitching.
Mark a guide line on the Flap parallel to its upper edge for attachment, measuring the width of the flap evenly along its length.
Mark guide lines on the garment parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the Flap and the Pocket Welts.
Attach the Pocket Welts to the assembled front. End the stitching exactly at the marked pocket lines.
Check from the wrong side that the stitching lines of the welts and flap are perfectly parallel.
Slash the pocket opening between the stitching lines. Make diagonal cuts 1–1.5 cm from each end of the opening.
Turn the welts through the opening to the wrong side. Straighten the edges and adjust the welt ends so that the pressed folds meet neatly edge to edge.
Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corner triangles.
Attach the Pocket Underlay to the Flap.
Insert the Flap with the Pocket Underlay into the pocket opening at the upper welt and stitch in place.
Secure the pocket opening by stitching in the seam of the lower welt attachment.
Technical note: this pocket is constructed as a double-welt pocket with flap without a pocket bag. The opening is formed, but the pocket remains non-functional.
Place the Center Front Facing right sides together with the Center Front, aligning the edges. Pin in place.
Stitch along the front edge (front opening), sewing from the side of the garment up to the notch marking the end of the collar attachment.
Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the garment strictly along the marked hem fold line.
Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edges.
Understitch the seam allowances along the front edge:
Position the understitching approximately 0.2 cm from the seam.
Turn the front edges right side out and carefully shape the edges.
Fold the vent extensions on each Center Back piece along the marked lines and press.
With right sides together, stitch the upper edge of each vent extension along the marked line.
Trim and clip the seam allowances at the corners, turn the vent extensions right side out, straighten the corners, and press.
Sew the center back seam from the neckline down to the vent start point.
Clip the seam allowances at the vent and press them open.
Lay the left vent over the right back, align the vent edges and secure the vent by basting.
Sew and press open the shoulder and side seams.
Sew and press open the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facing.
Sew the elbow seam of the sleeve and stitch the vent corners on the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve pieces.
Press the elbow seam open, clip as required, and press the vent into position.
Sew and press open the front sleeve seam.
Press the sleeve hem allowance to the wrong side.
Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches.
Attach shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Attach the Lower Collar to the neckline of the tailcoat.
Attach the Upper Collar to the assembled facing.
Sew the lining seams and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam.
Sew the center back seam of the lining down to the marked vent start point, corresponding to the outer garment.
Attach the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing.
Press the collar seam allowances open and secure them close to the seam.
Attach the lining to the lower edge of the front.
Turn up the sleeve lining hems and attach them to the sleeve hem allowances of the tailcoat. Turn the excess lining downward and press.
Smooth the lining into position inside the garment.
Finish the vent allowances using the seam allowances of the lining center back seam.
Shape the upper vent corners carefully.
Secure the left upper vent corner to the right back with invisible stitches, and the right upper vent corner to the left back lining.
Through the opening in the sleeve lining, attach the remaining unsewn section of the Tail side edge and lower back edge to the lining.
Work buttonholes on the right front.
Sew buttons onto the left front, aligning them precisely with the buttonholes.
Attach buttons to the sleeve vents.
Close the opening in the sleeve lining with a neat machine stitch or by hand.
Turn the garment right side out and carefully shape all edges and corners, ensuring the front edges, collar, and vent are fully turned and properly aligned.
Press the garment thoroughly:
Roll the seams slightly toward the underside where appropriate to prevent them from being visible on the right side.
Ensure the lining is distributed evenly inside the garment and does not pull or distort the outer fabric.
Optionally, secure the lining with thread tacks at the armholes and side seams to prevent shifting during wear.
Verify that all edges are clean, sharp, and symmetrical.
Ensure the hem hangs evenly and the garment maintains a balanced silhouette.
Give the garment a final press, ensuring a crisp, tailored appearance.
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