Collared Tie Front Long Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL (side) – 2 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL (SIDE PANEL) – 2 QTY
4. BACK NECK FACING – 1 QTY
5. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
6. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
7. FRONT PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
8. Underlap – 2 QTY
9. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
10. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
11. CUFF – 2 QTY
12. Tie – 8 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL (side) – 2 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL (SIDE PANEL) – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
5. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
6. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: underlap, back neck FACING, CUFF, lower COLLAR

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the underlap, back neck FACING, and CUFF.
2. Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch the lower COLLAR to the upper COLLAR. Trim, turn out COLLAR corners.
3. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL.
4. Place the tie pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, leaving the bottom edge of the tie unstitched. Turn the tie right side out, smooth the seams, and press. Place the tie on the right side of the center FRONT PANEL. Align the bottom edges of the tie with the seam allowance for the front opening and secure the tie with a backstitch.
5. Place the underlap on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front opening line. Stitch from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH that marks the end of the COLLAR insertion. Stitch the bottom edges of the underlaps to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front opening corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front opening: in the fastener area – to the underlap, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front openings right side out, smooth the seams.
6. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
7. Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams.
8. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neck FACING and underlap.
9. Insert the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and attach the upper COLLAR to the underlap with the FACING.
10. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Fold the CUFF in half and press. Attach the upper edge of the CUFF to the lower edge of the SLEEVE. Stitch the front seam of the SLEEVE and the side edge of the CUFF with a single seam.
11. Insert the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE head rolls.
12. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the right front SLEEVE seam. Press the LINING. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the underlaps, as well as to the back neck FACING. Press open the COLLAR insertion seam allowances and secure them close to the seams. Attach the SLEEVE LINING to the lower edge of the CUFF and the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening left in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.