Leather Utility Jacket with Zipper & Patch Pockets

Leather Utility Jacket with Zipper & Patch Pockets

A women's hip-length lined jacket with a centre front zip, a pointed shirt-type collar, a zipped chest pocket and two lined patch pockets with flaps. The lower edge is finished with a separate hem band, and the long sleeves end in band cuffs.

When To Wear

• As a light outer layer in spring and autumn, over a T-shirt, shirt or fine knit.
• With jeans or straight trousers for everyday wear.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, with the hem band ending at the hip.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Shirt-type collar with pointed ends, cut as an upper and a lower collar; the lower collar is set into the neckline and the upper collar joined to the front facings.

Closure: Centre front zip running from the hem band to the neck; front edges topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.

Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves with band cuffs; shoulder pads.

Pockets: A vertical zipped welt pocket on the chest, edgestitched 0.2 cm around the opening, with a two-part pocket bag. On the lower fronts, two patch pockets with rounded corners, lined and topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, under flaps with rounded corners topstitched 0.5 cm.

Back: Centre back seam.

Waist: A double-layer, interfaced hem band in front and back sections finishes the lower edge.

Lining: Fully lined body and sleeves; the lining is joined to the facings, the upper collar, the hem band and the cuffs, and the jacket is turned out through an opening in the sleeve lining.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A zipped welt pocket, lined patch pockets with flaps, a front zip set between the jacket and the facings, a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Faux leather or a firm jacket fabric such as denim, cotton twill or gabardine.

Additional Supplies

• Lining fabric
• Fusible interfacing (front facings, lower collar, hem band, cuffs)
• Zip for the centre front
• Zip for the chest pocket
• Shoulder pads

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric

1. Lower Collar – 1 piece
2. Upper Collar – 1 piece
3. Cuff – 2 pieces
4. Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Back Belt – 2 pieces
6. Front Belt – 4 pieces
7. Pocket – 2 pieces
8. Front Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
9. Front – 2 pieces
10. Back – 2 pieces
11. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
12. Bigger Pocket Bag of Upper Pocket – 1 piece

From Lining Fabric

For drafting lining patterns, use the following main patterns

1. Back – 1 piece
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Pocket – 2 pieces, shortened by 3 cm (without the cut-on facing)

Then cut the following piece using its pattern:

1. Smaller Pocket Bag of Upper Pocket – 1 piece

From Fusible Interfacing

For drafting fusible interfacing patterns, use main patterns:

1. Center Front Facing – cut 2 pieces
2. Lower Collar – cut 1 piece
3. Back Belt – cut 2 pieces
4. Front Belt – cut 4 pieces
5. Cuff – cut 2 pieces

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Lower Collar, Cuff, Back Belt and Front Belt.

2. Collar

Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch along the outer contour.

3. Zipper Pocket (Left Front)

Mark the zipper pocket placement on the Left Front.

Place the pocket opening facing on the Front, right sides together, and pin along the marked pocket opening line.

From the wrong side, stitch along the marked lines of the pocket, forming a rectangle.

Cut the facing and the Front along the pocket opening, clipping diagonally into the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end.

Turn the facing to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges and press the pocket opening.

Position the zipper under the edges of the opening so that the teeth are visible and edgestitch around the opening 0.2 cm from the edge.

Attach the Smaller Pocket Bag of Upper Pocket and Bigger Pocket Bag of Upper Pocket, then stitch the pocket bag closed.

4. Pocket Flaps

Place the Front Pocket Flap pieces in pairs (flap and under flap), right sides together, and stitch along the outer contour.

Trim seam allowances at the curved corners and turn right side out.

Topstitch along the outer contour at 0.5 cm from the edge.

5. Patch Pockets

Stitch the pocket lining to the cut-on facing of the Pocket, then stitch the lining and pocket edges together along the contour, leaving an opening of approximately 5 cm in the side edge for turning.

Trim seam allowances at the curved corners and turn right side out.

Shape and press the pocket.

6. Pocket Flaps and Patch Pockets

Place the Front Pocket Flap onto the Front according to the markings and topstitch.

Fold the flap downward and topstitch at 0.5 cm from the seam.

Place the Pocket onto the Front according to the markings and topstitch along the outer contour at 0.5 cm from the edge.

Reinforce the upper corners of the pockets with double stitching.

7. Center Back Seam

Stitch the center back seam of the Back.

8. Front Belt

Attach the Front Belt to the lower edge of the Front.

Place the Front Belt pieces right sides together and stitch along the lower edge.

9. Back Belt

Attach the Back Belt to the lower edge of the Back.

Place the Back Belt pieces right sides together and stitch along the lower edge.

10. Zipper

Stitch the zipper to the front edges.

Turn under the front edges along the zipper and press.

11. Shoulder and Side Seams

Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.

12. Center Front Facing

Stitch the lower edge of the Center Front Facing to the upper edge of the Front Belt.

Place the Center Front Facing onto the Front, right sides together, and stitch along the front edge.

Stitch from the Front side upward to the notch marking the end of the collar attachment.

Trim seam allowances at the upper and lower corners.

Turn the front edges right side out and shape the seams.

Topstitch along the front edge at 0.5 cm from the edge.

13. Collar Attachment

Attach the Lower Collar to the neckline.

Attach the Upper Collar to the Center Front Facing.

14. Cuffs

Attach the Cuff to the lower edge of the Sleeve.

Stitch the sleeve seam together with the cuff.

15. Sleeves

Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches.

Insert shoulder pads.

16. Lining

On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the sleeve seam.

Attach the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facing and the Upper Collar.

Press the seam allowances of the collar attachment open and secure them close to the seams.

17. Joining Lining

Attach the lining to the lower edge of the hem band (Front Belt and Back Belt) and to the lower edge of the sleeves.

Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve.

Stitch in the ditch of the hem band and Cuff seams to secure them.

Close the opening in the sleeve seam.