Empire Waist Coat with Wide Notched Lapels
Introducing a sophisticated women's coat pattern, featuring wide notched lapels, a flattering empire waistline, and elegantly shaped panels for a refined silhouette.
When To Wear
This coat is a stylish and versatile outerwear piece, making it an ideal choice for:
- Professional Settings: Its tailored silhouette and classic design are perfect for work or business engagements.
- Elegant Daywear: Elevates everyday outfits, providing a polished and sophisticated look for various occasions.
- Transitional Seasons: Offers both warmth and style, ideal for cooler spring or autumn days.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice, gently flaring from the empire waistline to a knee-length hem.
Neckline & Collar: Features a classic notched lapel collar with wide lapels for a sophisticated look.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a prominent single-button closure positioned at the empire waist seam.
Sleeves: Full-length, set-in sleeves with a clean, tailored finish.
Pockets: Functional flap pockets are integrated into the lower front panels.
Back: Designed with elegant princess seams extending from the armhole to the hem, connected by a horizontal seam at the empire waist level.
Waist: a distinctive empire waistline is created by a horizontal seam and carefully shaped panels, enhancing the figure just below the bust.
Length: Finishes at approximately knee length, offering classic coat coverage.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires confident tailoring skills including collar and lapel construction, lining insertion, setting in sleeves, and creating flap pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight coating fabrics with good body and structure for best results:
- Pure wool coating fabrics
- Wool blend coating fabrics
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 button
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back – 1 qty
- Lower center back – 1 qty
- Upper side back – 2 qty
- Lower side back – 2 qty
- Lower collar – 1 qty
- Upper collar – 1 qty
- Upper side front – 2 qty
- Lower side front – 2 qty
- Upper center front – 2 qty
- Lower center front – 2 qty
- Facing – 2 qty
- Flap – 4 qty
- Sleeve – 2 qty
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 1 qty
- Side back - 2 qty
- Side front – 2 qty
- Center front – 2 qty
- Pocket bag – 4 qty
- Sleeve – 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing: facing, lower collar, upper center front, armhole of upper side front, center upper back, armhole of upper side back, grain line for pocket; hem seam allowances: lower center front, sleeve, lower side back, lower center back.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to facing, lower collar, upper center front, lower center front, armhole of upper side front, center upper back, armhole of upper side back; hem seam allowances: lower center front, sleeve, lower side back, lower center back.
- Place upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the lower collar to the upper collar. Trim, turn out the collar corners.
- Place the flap and underflap right sides together, straighten the edges and stitch. Trim and turn out the seam allowances at the flap corners. Baste and press the flap from the underflap side, creating a 0.2-0.1 cm edge on the flap side.
- Stitch the upper center front to the lower center front and the upper side front to the lower side front. Press the seams downwards and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the relief seams of the front and press them towards the center of the front. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Secure the pocket opening with a grain line or baste. Fold the pocket facing in half wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket facing parallel to the facing fold for attachment. Mark a guideline on the flap for attachment parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark guidelines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket facing. Stitch the pocket bag to the flap. Stitch the flap with the pocket bag to the lower side front. Stitch the facing to the lower center front. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the facing and flap attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Through the resulting opening, turn the facing and the flap attachment seam to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the end of the facing so that the pressed fold of the facing meets the flap attachment seam. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge. Stitching is done from the front side up to the notch, which determines the end of the collar insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the facing to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the edge. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge along the seam of the edge.
- Stitch the upper side back to the lower side back and the upper center back to the lower center back. Press the seams downwards and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the relief seams of the back, press towards the center of the back and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat. Press open the shoulder and side seams of the coat.
- Insert the lower collar into the neckline and stitch the upper collar to the facings.
- Insert the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right sleeve seam. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the facings and the upper collar. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure close to the seams. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the coat. Turn the coat right side out through the opening in the sleeve and stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, overlock buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
