Military-Inspired Double-Breasted Coat
Introducing a sophisticated coat pattern featuring a double-breasted closure, tailored silhouette, and elegant mid-calf length, perfect for a polished look.
When To Wear
This elegant coat is a versatile choice, perfect for:
- Professional Settings: Its structured design and refined details make it ideal for business wear or formal office environments.
- Elevated Casual Outings: Pair it with smart-casual attire for a chic and put-together ensemble.
- Transitional Weather: Provides stylish warmth and coverage during cooler seasons.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, fitted bodice gently flares to an a-line skirt, cinched at the natural waist.
Collar & Lapel: Features a classic notched lapel collar, creating a refined neckline.
Closure: Double-breasted front with two rows of buttons provides a secure and stylish closure.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves ensure a clean, tailored arm line, complete with a subtle vent detail at the cuff.
Pockets: Integrated vertical pockets are thoughtfully placed along the front princess seams for functionality and a sleek appearance.
Back: a clean, tailored back features princess seams, enhancing the coat's fitted shape.
Waist: An adjustable self-fabric tie belt cinches the waist, defining the silhouette.
Length: An elegant mid-calf length offers substantial coverage and a sophisticated drape.
Details: Decorative topstitching clearly defines and accentuates the coat's structured design lines.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires confident tailoring skills including lapel construction, precision pocket setting, lining application, and working with structured fabrics.
Fabric Recommendations
Opt for medium-weight woven fabrics that offer both structure and a smooth drape:
- Gabardine
- Wool blends
- Twill
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 12 large buttons for the front closure
- Smaller buttons for sleeve vents (quantity not specified)
- Lining fabric
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center back – 2 qty
- 2. Back neckline facing – 1 qty
- 3. Collar – 2 qty
- 4. Center front – 2 qty
- 5. Front facing – 2 qty
- 6. Side front – 2 qty
- 7. Side back – 2 qty
- 8. Upper sleeve – 2 qty
- 9. Lower sleeve – qty
- 10. Belt – 2 qty
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Center back – 1 qty
- 2. Side back - 2 qty
- 3. Side front – 2 qty
- 4. Center front – 2 qty
- 5. Pocket bag – 4 qty
- 6. Upper sleeve – 2 qty
- 7. Lower sleeve – 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, back neckline facing, center front, armhole of side front, armhole of side back, vent section, lower collar; hem seam allowances: center back, side back, lower sleeve, side front, upper sleeve.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facing, back neckline facing, center front, armhole of side front, lower collar, vent section, armhole of side back; hem seam allowances: center back, side front, side back, lower sleeve, upper sleeve.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the lower collar to the upper collar. Trim, turn out the collar corners.
- Place the belt right sides together and stitch on four sides, leaving an opening in the center of the upper belt seam. Turn out the belt, press, and stitch the opening closed in the center.
- Stitch the relief seams, leaving the pocket opening unstitched.
- On the right side of the side and center front, place the pocket bag right side down along the notches and stitch it. Fold back the seam and topstitch it onto the pocket bag. Stitch and overlock the pocket bag. Make a notch at the pocket opening, press open the front reliefs, and press the pocket towards the center.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge line. Stitching is done from the front side upwards to the notch that defines the end of the collar attachment. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge stitching: in the fastener area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
- Stitch and press open the back reliefs.
- Stitch the center back seam. Press the lower vent edge by 1 cm. Press the center back seam and vent towards the center back. Topstitch the center back seam at the upper end of the vent diagonally according to the marking, catching the vent seam allowance.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press open the seams.
- Attach the lower collar to the coat neckline, and stitch the upper collar to the front facing with the facing.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Press the sleeve hem.
- Set the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press the lining. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
- Fold under the lining sleeves and stitch to the hem of the coat sleeve, fold down the excess lining fabric and press. Turn the coat right side out. Smooth out the lining, pin the side seams to the coat sides and carefully cut along the vent edges, shifting 1 cm towards the center seam. Before reaching 1 cm from the top of the vent, make diagonal cuts of 1 cm in both directions. Fold the cuts inwards and pin to the vent edges. Insert a hand between the coat and lining, grasp the pinned edges and pull them out one by one. Stitch the edges, fold the hem down. Straighten the vent edges. At the upper edge of the vent, fold under the lining corner and sew to the vent seam allowance. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the coat. Turn the coat through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, overlock the buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on the buttons.
