Short Double-Breasted Coat

Fabric & Materials

You will need: mohair drape fabric (Angora goat wool) 150 cm wide; LINING fabric; FUSIBLE INTERFACING; 8 large and 4 medium buttons; 1 flat button for the inner fastener; 1 buckle 5 cm high; raglan shoulder pads. Fabric recommendations: soft coat fabrics. IF THE PATTERN PIECES HAVE A DOUBLE OUTLINE, THEN THE PATTERN PIECES INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES, IF THE OUTLINE IS SINGLE, THEN THE PATTERN PIECES ARE GIVEN WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1 FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• 2 FRONT PANEL YOKE - QTY 2
• 3 BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• 4 FACING - QTY 2
• 5 COLLAR STAND - QTY 2 on fold
• 6 COLLAR - QTY 2 on fold
• 7 SLEEVE - QTY 2
• 8 POCKET - QTY 2
• Pocket FACING - QTY 2
• 9 SLEEVE CUFF - QTY 2
• a) strip for 6 belt loops 55 cm long and 3 cm wide, finished 1.5 cm;
• b) tie belt total length 1.70 m and 11 cm wide, finished 5.5 cm;
• From LINING fabric:
• FRONT PANEL and FRONT PANEL YOKE QTY 2 minus the width of the FACING
• BACK PANEL QTY 2
• SLEEVE QTY 2 (should be 2 cm shorter than the garment SLEEVE),
• POCKET QTY 2 (minus the width of the top FACING - up to the LINING line drawn on the pattern).
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: interface the FRONT PANEL YOKE, FACING, COLLAR stand, COLLAR, pocket, belt, on the FRONT PANEL - the lapel and FACING area, also iron the INTERFACING to the hem allowances.

Sewing Instructions

1. Stitch the FRONT PANEL yokes to the FRONT PANELs and topstitch at a distance of 2 cm.
2. Sew the center back seam.
3. Sew the side and shoulder seams, topstitch the FRONT PANEL yokes along the seams.
4. COLLAR with lapels. Stitch the FACINGs to the edges of the fronts and lapels up to the transverse mark and leave them lying on the FRONT PANELs for now. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the stitching.
5. Stitch the COLLAR stand pieces to the COLLAR pieces, topstitch each resulting piece on both sides of the seam close to the seam.
6. Neatly stitch the COLLAR along the outer contour, slightly easing the upper COLLAR.
7. Insert the COLLAR on each side between the FRONT PANEL and the FACING. Stitch the lower COLLAR with the stand into the neckline of the short coat, stitch the upper COLLAR with the stand into the necklines of the FACINGs. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and lower COLLAR insertion seams several times and press open.
8. Turn the FACINGs to the wrong side. Pin the insertion seams precisely and sew the SEAM ALLOWANCES of these seams from the wrong side of the garment. At the back, lay the upper COLLAR flat over the lower COLLAR insertion seam into the back neckline and topstitch precisely into the seam from the right side of the garment.
9. Turn the hem allowance of the short coat to the wrong side up to the FACINGs and topstitch at a distance of 3 cm.
10. Topstitch the short coat along the fronts, lapels and the outer contour of the COLLAR at a distance of 2 cm.
11. Since the fabric used for sewing is thick, finish the pockets with LINING. Stitch the LINING of each pocket to the integrated FACING, leaving an opening in the seam for turning the pocket out. Finish the pocket along the contour with the FACING and LINING. Topstitch the integrated flap up to the fold line at a distance of 2 cm. Topstitch the pocket onto the FRONT PANEL at a distance of 2 cm along the alignment lines. Press the flap down.
12. Neatly stitch the strip for the belt loops and topstitch close to the edge. Cut the strip into 6 equal parts and topstitch the belt loops over the side seams and onto the SLEEVES.
13. Sew the SLEEVE seams. Stitch the SLEEVE CUFFs to the SLEEVE pieces. Set in the SLEEVES. Topstitch the garment along the SLEEVE insertion seams at a distance of 1 cm. Sew on the shoulder pads.
14. On the LINING fabric pieces, sew the seams, leaving the back shoulder edges protruding at the neckline. Set in the SLEEVES. Stitch the LINING to the FACINGs, leaving open sections at the bottom approximately 10 cm long. At the top, hand-sew the LINING to the FACINGs and COLLAR stand.
15. Insert each LINING SLEEVE into the short coat SLEEVE, turn under in one place and pin to the CUFF attachment allowances. Through the open bottom of the short coat, reach your hand between the garment and the LINING and pull the SLEEVE out. Stitch the LINING SLEEVE to the CUFF attachment allowances of the short coat SLEEVE. Straighten the SLEEVE. Turn under the LINING and topstitch so that the LINING is approx. 1 cm shorter than the short coat. Complete the remaining open sections of the LINING seams (at the FACINGs). Sew the FACINGs to the hem.
16. Neatly stitch the tie belt. Topstitch the belt at a distance of 2 cm. Sew the buckle to the straight end of the belt.
17. On the right FRONT PANEL, make 3 buttonholes, on the left FRONT PANEL - the upper buttonhole for the underbutton, on the pointed ends of the tabs - 2 buttonholes each (one behind the other). Sew the buttons in the corresponding places.