Princess Seam Long Sleeve Jacket with center loops closure

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Center FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• 2. Side FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• 3. Center BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• 4. Side BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• 5. Upper SLEEVE - QTY 2
• 6. Elbow SLEEVE - QTY 2
• 7. COLLAR - QTY 2 on fold
• 8. Back neckline FACING - QTY 1 on fold
• 9. Pocket bag - QTY 4
• 10. Front FACING - QTY 2
• From LINING fabric: FRONT PANEL - minus the width of the front FACING, BACK PANEL - minus the width of the neckline FACING, without SEAM ALLOWANCES for the vent and with a 2 cm deep pleat along the center line, side FRONT PANEL, side BACK PANEL, upper SLEEVE, elbow SLEEVE;
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front FACING pieces, back neckline FACING, COLLAR, vent, center FRONT PANEL pieces;

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the front FACING pieces, back neckline FACING, COLLAR, vent, and center FRONT PANEL pieces with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. Stitch the center seams of the BACK PANEL up to the vent NOTCH. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the right BACK PANEL piece diagonally at the corner. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open, press the one-piece vent FACING and the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE towards the left BACK PANEL piece.
3. Stitch the princess seams on the BACK PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center back.
4. Stitch the princess seams and darts on the FRONT PANEL, leaving the pocket opening unstitched. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES and dart depths towards the center.
5. Attach the upper pocket bag to the pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCE of the center FRONT PANEL piece, right sides together. Attach the lower pocket bag to the pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCE of the side FRONT PANEL piece, right sides together. Stitch the pocket bag edges. Topstitch the center FRONT PANEL piece along the princess seam, skipping the pocket openings.
6. Stitch the side and shoulder seams.
7. Attach the back neckline FACING to the front FACINGS.
8. Place the front FACINGS and FACING with the jacket, right sides together, and pin, inserting thread loops between the right front FACING and the jacket front according to markings. Attach the front FACINGS to the edges of the jacket fronts and lapels up to the transverse NOTCH.
9. Neatly stitch the COLLAR along the outer contour. Insert the COLLAR between the jacket and the front FACINGS with the FACING. Stitch the undercollar to the jacket neckline, the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the front FACINGS and FACING. Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and undercollar, clip at curves. Turn the front FACINGS and FACING to the wrong side. Pin the stitching lines of the upper and undercollars. Stitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and undercollars close to the seams. Press the jacket hem allowance to the wrong side.
10. Press the one-piece vent FACINGS and vent SEAM ALLOWANCE to the wrong side along the fold lines, topstitch the left BACK PANEL piece diagonally at the upper end of the vent, catching the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE.
11. Stitch the longitudinal seams of the SLEEVES, leaving the vent open in the elbow seam. Hem the SLEEVE. Press the vent edges. From the wrong side of the SLEEVE, stitch the longitudinal and upper short transverse edges of the one-piece vent FACING and vent SEAM ALLOWANCE. Sew small buttons onto the SLEEVE, catching the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE. Set in the SLEEVES, easing the sleeve caps. Sew a strip of synthetic batting approx. 4 cm wide under the SEAM ALLOWANCES of each SLEEVE setting seam in the sleeve cap area. Sew on shoulder pads.
12. Stitch the ease pleat on the LINING BACK PANEL. Press the pleat depth to the left. Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving a 20 cm section unstitched in the SLEEVE side seam. Place the LINING with the main garment, right sides facing in, pin along the center back line and shoulder seams. Finish the main garment with the LINING along the front FACINGS and neckline FACING. Fold the LINING with the jacket, wrong sides together. Above the back vent, turn under the LINING and pin to the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE FACING (right edge). Pull the pinned edges out through the open bottom and stitch. At the upper end of the vent, turn under the LINING and hand stitch to the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE. Press the jacket hem allowance to the wrong side and stitch. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the SLEEVES. Attach the LINING to the hem allowance edge. Turn the garment right side out through the remaining unstitched SLEEVE section, stitch this section.
13. Sew buttons onto the left FRONT PANEL.