CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- 2. Side FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- 3. Center BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 4. Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 5. Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- 6. Elbow SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- 7. COLLAR - 2 QTY on fold
- 8. Back neckline FACING - 1 QTY on fold
- 9. Pocket bag - 4 QTY
- 10. Front FACING - 2 QTY
- From LINING fabric: FRONT PANEL - minus the width of the front FACING, BACK PANEL - minus the width of the neckline FACING, side FRONT PANEL, side BACK PANEL, upper SLEEVE, elbow SLEEVE;
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front FACING pieces, back neckline FACING, COLLAR;
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce front FACING pieces, back neckline FACING, and COLLAR with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
- Stitch center BACK PANEL SEAM ALLOWANCES. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
- Stitch BACK PANEL princess seams. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center back. Topstitch center BACK PANEL along the princess seams at a distance of 0.7 cm from the seam edge.
- Stitch FRONT PANEL princess seams, leaving the pocket opening unstitched. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center.
- Attach the upper pocket bag to the pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCE of the center FRONT PANEL, right sides together. Topstitch the center FRONT PANEL along the pocket opening. Attach the lower pocket bag to the pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCE of the side FRONT PANEL, right sides together. Stitch the pocket bag edges. Topstitch the center FRONT PANEL along the princess seam, skipping the pocket openings.
- Stitch side and shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Attach the back neckline FACING to the front FACINGS.
- Place front FACINGS and FACING on the jacket, right sides together, and pin. Attach front FACINGS to the edges of the front and lapels up to the transverse mark.
- Clean finish the COLLAR along the outer contour. Insert the COLLAR between the jacket and the front FACINGS with the FACING. Stitch the under COLLAR to the jacket neckline, the upper COLLAR to the front FACINGS and FACING neckline. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and under COLLAR attachment seams open, clip at curves. Turn front FACINGS and FACING to the wrong side. Press the jacket hem allowance to the wrong side. Pin the upper and under COLLAR attachment seams. Stitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and under COLLAR attachment seams close to the seams. Press the jacket hem allowance to the wrong side.
- Stitch the front and elbow SEAM ALLOWANCES of the SLEEVES. Press the SLEEVE hem allowance to the wrong side. Set in the SLEEVES, easing the sleeve caps. Sew a strip of synthetic batting approx. 4 cm wide under the SEAM ALLOWANCES of each SLEEVE attachment seam in the sleeve cap area. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm in the elbow seam of one of the SLEEVES. Place the LINING and the main garment right sides together, pin along the center back and shoulder seams. Finish the main garment with the LINING along the front FACINGS and neckline FACING. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the SLEEVES. Attach the LINING to the hem allowance edge. Turn the garment right side out through the unstitched SLEEVE section, then stitch this section closed.
- Topstitch the jacket along the edges of the fronts, lapels, and COLLAR.
- On the right FRONT PANEL, make a buttonhole; on the left, sew on a button.
