Pants with a Yoke and Inseam Zippered Pockets

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• Front Yoke - 2 QTY on fold
• Back Yoke - 2 QTY on fold
• Additionally: 4 pocket bags, 13 cm wide and 9 cm long each, including SEAM ALLOWANCES.
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: iron the interfacing to the outer yoke pieces. If the fabric is very thin, the interfacing should also be ironed to the inner yoke pieces.

Sewing Instructions

1. If you are using regular ZIPPERS, they are sewn only after the seams under the edges of the upper side slit and under the edges of the pocket openings are completed.
2. Reinforce the outer yoke pieces with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (heat-adhesive interfacings are ironed to the wrong side of the piece with a strongly heated iron).
3. Sew the front and back center seams, starting each seam at the upper edge of the trousers and finishing it at the beginning of the crotch curve. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
4. Create zippered pockets in the seam where the outer front yoke is attached: Mark the pocket openings on the outer front yoke piece and on the front trouser halves.
5. Open the invisible ZIPPER and press the coil with your thumb nail so that the "seam line" between the ZIPPER tape and the coil becomes visible. Lay the open ZIPPER face down on the right side of the trousers. The ZIPPERS should open from the center seam towards the side seam.
6. For the ZIPPER to be sewn exactly along the marked "seam line", calculate the distance from the edge of the tape to the edge of the garment: SEAM ALLOWANCE width minus 1 cm of tape = distance to the fabric edge. Pin the upper end of the ZIPPER tape with one pin at the calculated distance from the garment edge. The lower end of the ZIPPER extends beyond the slit mark.
7. Position the sewing machine foot over the ZIPPER so that the coil is under the notch of the foot to the right of the needle. Stitch the ZIPPER from the upper end to the slit mark.
8. Close the ZIPPER. Lay the second ZIPPER tape face down on the right side of the garment along the second edge of the slit and pin the upper end of the tape with one pin. Open the ZIPPER again.
9. Position the sewing machine foot over the ZIPPER so that the coil is under the notch of the foot to the left of the needle. Stitch the tape from the upper end to the slit mark. Close the ZIPPER.
10. Attach the pocket bags of each pocket to the ZIPPER tapes and the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the pocket opening (right side to right side). From the ends of the pocket openings, attach the outer front yoke piece to the front trouser halves. Turn the pocket bags down, trim to equalize, and stitch.
11. Attach the outer back yoke piece to the back trouser halves. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
12. Sew the right side seam. Attach the invisible ZIPPER in the left side seam: see above.
13. Pin the left side seam of the trousers below the ZIPPER (right side to right side), turning the free lower end of the ZIPPER towards the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Sew the left side seam, starting the stitch as close as possible to the lower stitch of the ZIPPER attachment seam. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
14. Stitch the crotch edges. Complete the remaining sections of the front and back center seams.
15. On the inner yoke pieces, sew the right side seam.
16. Lay the inner yoke right side down on the right side of the attached outer yoke and stitch the upper edges of both yokes.
17. Turn the inner yoke up and topstitch it to the SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the seam.
18. Turn the inner yoke to the wrong side, fold under, and sew to the ZIPPER tapes. Lay the lower edge of the inner yoke over the seam where the outer yoke was attached and, from the right side of the trousers, stitch precisely into the seam where the outer yoke was attached.
19. Press the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES of the trousers to the wrong side and hand stitch.