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Minervainervabeta
#5111
#5113

Short Sleeve Collared Front Pleat Dress

Pattern #5112
Tech. Description

CUTTER'S MUST

  • FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
  • BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
  • Back neckline FACING - 1 QTY on fold
  • COLLAR - 2 QTY on fold
  • SLEEVE - 2 QTY

Sewing Instructions

FUSIBLE INTERFACING: Reinforce the integrated facings, the back neckline FACING, and one COLLAR piece (= upper COLLAR) with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.

  1. On the FRONT PANELS, stitch the darts diagonally, tapering to nothing. Tie off thread ends at dart points. Press dart depths downwards.
  2. On the FRONT PANELS and BACK PANEL, pin the pleats on the wrong side, precisely matching the markings. Stitch between the transverse NOTCHES. Press the pleats towards the respective center lines, topstitch on the right side close to the edge and at a distance of 0.5 cm. At the upper and lower ends of the pleats, stitch across.
  3. Stitch the back center and side seams above the cut NOTCHES, stitch the shoulder seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
  4. Fold the COLLAR pieces right sides together, slightly curve the outer edges outwards and pin; this gives the upper COLLAR "length allowance" so that it lies more beautifully on the finished garment. Stitch along the outer contour, leave the COLLAR attachment seam open. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES to a width of 0.5 cm, trim diagonally at the corners. Turn the COLLAR right side out, carefully pulling out the COLLAR corners with a needle. Topstitch the COLLAR along the outer edge close to the edge and at a distance of 0.5 cm, catching the lower COLLAR. Baste the open edges of the COLLAR, attach to the neckline from the right side. The transverse NOTCH aligns with the shoulder seam, the front edges of the COLLAR lie on the center line of the FRONT PANELS.
  5. Front edges and neckline: Attach the back neckline FACING right sides together to the integrated facings. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Attach the facings and FACING right sides together to the neckline edges; the shoulder seams on the dress and the facings with the FACING align precisely. Trim the attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES to a width of 0.5 cm. Turn the facings and FACING to the wrong side. Baste the front edges and neckline.
  6. Bottom edge and side slits: Press the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side first, then the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the side slits. At the corners of the bottom edge, fold the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the slits diagonally. Topstitch the bottom edge and slit edges from the right side at a distance of 1.2 cm. Topstitch the front edges and the COLLAR attachment seam from the right side close to the edge. Hand stitch the facings to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES and shoulder seam SEAM ALLOWANCES.
  7. Stitch the SLEEVE seams. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Press the SLEEVE hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side, topstitch from the right side.
  8. Set in SLEEVES: Pin the SLEEVES into the armholes right sides together, matching the alignment NOTCHES. Baste and stitch the SLEEVES, basting and stitching along the SLEEVE. Join and overcast the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
  9. Make bound buttonholes along the right front edge. Sew buttons to the left FRONT PANEL along the center front line.

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