Long Princess Seam Coat
Introducing a sophisticated long coat pattern, meticulously designed with flattering princess seams on both the front and back, creating a gracefully fitted bodice that flares into a voluminous skirt.
When To Wear
This elegant long coat is designed for sophisticated layering in cooler weather, making it an ideal choice for:
- Cooler Weather Elegance: a stylish outer layer for autumn and winter, offering both warmth and a polished look.
- Professional & Urban Outings: Ideal for daily commutes, business meetings, or stylish city excursions.
- Special Occasions: Elevates formal casual wear or serves as a refined statement piece for events.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted, tailored bodice shaped by front and back princess seams, gracefully flaring into a full, a-line skirt from the waist down.
Collar & Neckline: Features a classic notched collar with a distinct collar stand, creating a sophisticated and structured neckline.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a button placket, secured by a series of prominent buttons.
Sleeves: Expertly drafted two-piece set-in sleeves provide a tailored fit and allow for comfortable movement.
Pockets: Functional flapped pockets are strategically placed at the hip level, adding both utility and classic detail.
Back: Defined by continuous princess seams, a central pleat at the lower back, and a decorative buttoned back strap, enhancing the coat's structured silhouette.
Length: a full-length coat, reaching from below the knee to the calf, offering ample coverage and a dramatic drape.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Involves precise tailoring techniques including princess seam construction, notched collar with stand, two-piece sleeves, flapped pockets, and lining insertion.
Fabric Recommendations
Select medium-weight coat fabrics with good body and drape to best achieve the intended silhouette:
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Buttons (6 total: 4 for front closure, 2 for back strap)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Upper back - 1 piece on fold
- 2. Lower back - 1 piece on fold
- 3. Side back - 2 qty
- 4. Center front - 2 qty
- 5. Upper front side - 2 qty
- 6. Lower front side - 2 qty
- 7. Facing - 2 qty
- 8. Collar - 2 qty
- 9. Collar Stand - 2 qty
- 10. Upper sleeve - 2 qty
- 11. Lower sleeve - 2 qty
- 12. Tab - 2 qty
- 13. Pocket Flap - 4 qty
- 14. Pocket Facing - 2 qty
- From lining fabric:
- 15. Back - 1 piece on fold
- 16. Front - 2 qty
- 17. Upper sleeve - 2 qty
- 18. Lower sleeve - 2 qty
- 19. Pocket Bag - 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing: reinforce facing pieces, one tab piece, upper flap pieces, one collar piece and stand. Additionally, press the interfacing to the hem seam allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce facing pieces, one tab piece, upper flap pieces, one collar piece and stand with fusible interfacing (Heat-activated interfacings are pressed to the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- On the lower back, create and baste the pleat, aligning the notches. Then stitch it, placing the stitch line slightly above the marked line on the upper seam allowance.
- Assemble the back: stitch the seam connecting the upper back to the lower back, and the relief seams. Stitch the pleat according to the markings.
- Stitch the tab on three sides, turn right side out, and press the folds. Turning under the raw edge, stitch along the edges of the tab at a distance of 0.5 cm. Attach the tab to the back with buttons, covering the seam connecting the upper back to the lower back.
- Pockets: Neatly stitch the flap pieces together along the side and bottom edges. Topstitch the edges. Fold under the seam allowances of one of the long sides of the pocket facing and topstitch the pocket facing to the pocket bag.
- Align the raw edges of the flaps with the lower edge of the upper front side, placing the flap on the right side of the upper front side; place the pocket bag with the pocket facing on top of the flap, baste all layers. Stitch the flap and pocket bag and turn down.
- Press the seam allowance of the upper edge of the lower front side to the wrong side. Baste the pocket opening (upper front side to lower front side) with cross stitches.
- Fold the pocket bag along the fold line, turn under the raw edge and topstitch to the seam allowance of the upper edge of the lower front side. Baste the pocket bags to the edges of the lower front side.
- Stitch the relief seams of the front PANELs. Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the fusible interfacing-reinforced stand to the reinforced collar, and the unreinforced stand to the unreinforced collar, press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the lining fabric pieces. Stitch the shoulder seams of the FACINGs and the back lining, finish the FACINGs with the lining along the inner edges.
- Insert the reinforced stand piece into the neckline, press seam allowances open; attach the unreinforced stand to the FACINGs with the lining.
- Place the upper collar, combined with the FACINGs and lining, onto the main garment right sides together and stitch the fronts and collar; turn right side out and press; hand stitch the edge of the upper collar stand to the neckline.
- From the right side of the garment, straighten the front and collar, baste.
- Reinforce the hem seam allowance of the sleeve and the vent with fusible interfacing. Stitch the sleeve seams, leaving the vents open on the elbow seams of the SLEEVEs.
- Above the vent mark, clip the seam allowances of the lower sleeve parts. Press the seam allowances open above the vent. Finish the SLEEVEs with a hem.
- Press the edges of the vents on the upper sleeve parts to the wrong side. Pin the vents, topstitch the edges of the vents together from the inside.
- Gather the sleeve cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated marks and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron.
- Pin the sleeve to the garment, aligning the control marks, and stitch, sewing from the sleeve side.
- Attach shoulder pads. Hem the bottom of the coat.
- Attach the lining to the lower edges of the SLEEVEs. Hem the lining.
- On the right front, overlock buttonholes, on the left, sew on buttons.
