Cargo Trousers with Patch Pockets and Bottom Drawstring

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Center FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 2. Side FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 3. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 4. Side FRONT PANEL, cut-on with pocket bag - 2 QTY
• 5. Pocket bag - 2 QTY
• 6. Patch pocket - 2 QTY
• 7. Waistband - 1 QTY
• 8. Belt loop piece - 1 QTY
• Additionally: Cut 2 FACINGS for zipper pocket openings, 17 cm long and 4 cm wide each, including SEAM ALLOWANCES.
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce waistband with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the waistband with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-adhesive interfacings are pressed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
2. On each FRONT PANEL of the trousers, make a longitudinal relief seam (stitch pieces 1 and 2 together). Topstitch the center part of the FRONT PANEL of the trousers along the seam close to the seam and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
3. On the BACK PANELS of the trousers and on the side FRONT PANELS of the trousers (piece 4), stitch the darts. Press the dart depths towards the center back/front line.
4. Make side pockets with a cut-off SIDE PANEL: on each FRONT PANEL of the trousers, FACE the pocket opening with the pocket bag and topstitch. Place the FRONT PANEL of the trousers onto the side FRONT PANEL, aligning the pocket opening with the marked pocket opening line, and pin. From the wrong side of the trousers, stitch the edges of the pocket bags. Baste the pocket bags under the FRONT PANEL of the trousers, first trimming the SEAM ALLOWANCE on the right pocket bag along the center front line.
5. Make the side seams, topstitch the BACK PANELS of the trousers along the seams close to the seam.
6. Make patch pockets with zippers: on the wrong side of each pocket, press a strip of FUSIBLE INTERFACING approximately 3 cm wide over the pocket opening marking and mark the pocket opening on the FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Fold the FACING with the pocket right sides together over the marked pocket opening lines, pin along these lines, and stitch from the wrong side of the pocket along these lines. Cut the FACING and pocket along between the stitching lines, diagonally to the corner points. Pull the FACING through the slit to the wrong side, baste the pocket opening, and press. Baste the ZIPPER under the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible, and stitch close to the edge. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the pocket edges to the wrong side. Pin the pocket to the trouser half along the alignment lines and topstitch.
7. Make the inseams. Place the trouser halves one inside the other, right side to right side, and make the center seam up to the slit mark for the closure.
8. Zipper closure. Press the cut-on FACINGS of the closure to the wrong side: on the right - along the center front line, on the left - stopping approximately 1 cm before the center front line (= SEAM ALLOWANCE for the closure). Stitch the ZIPPER under the edge of the SEAM ALLOWANCE for the closure (left side) close to the edge, positioning the teeth flush with the fold. Pin the slit, aligning the center front lines. Stitch the free tape of the ZIPPER to the FACING of the right side of the closure, without catching the fabric of the FRONT PANEL of the trousers. Topstitch the right FRONT PANEL of the trousers along the closure according to the marking, catching the FACING.
9. Cleanly stitch the belt loop strip to a width of 1.5 cm, topstitch, and cut into 5 equal parts. Baste the belt loops to the upper edges of the trouser halves: at the front - at the relief seams, at the back - at the dart seams and above the back center seam.
10. Stitch the waistband to the upper edge of the trousers, leaving the SEAM ALLOWANCE for the waistband closure extending 3 cm beyond the edge of the SEAM ALLOWANCE for the trouser closure. Fold the waistband lengthwise and cleanly stitch along the front edges. Turn under the inner half of the waistband and baste over the stitching seam. From the right side of the trousers, topstitch the waistband along the contour close to the edge. Turn the belt loops upwards, turn under, and topstitch along the upper edge of the waistband.
11. On the FRONT and BACK PANELS of the trousers, punch eyelets at the bottom near the side seams, placing folded fabric scraps on the wrong side. Cut the elastic cord in half. Press the hem SEAM ALLOWANCE of each trouser half to the wrong side, place a piece of cord under the hem, pull the ends of the cord out through the eyelets. Turn under the hem and topstitch according to the marking. Place a stopper on the ends of the cord. On the right end of the waistband, overcast a buttonhole.