CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center BACK PANEL - 1 piece on fold
- 2. Side BACK PANEL - 2 pieces
- 3. Side FRONT PANEL - 2 pieces
- 4. Center FRONT PANEL, cut-on with hood - 2 pieces
- 5. SLEEVE - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the princess seams of the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Overlock and press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Create the center hood seam as a flat-felled seam: stitch the edge, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES to the left side of the hood, trim the bottom allowance close to the stitching, fold under the top allowance, baste, and topstitch from the right side of the hood at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- On each FRONT PANEL, clip the allowance at the corner. Stitch the darts, press the dart depths to the back.
- Sew the shoulder seams.
- Set the hood into the back neckline. Trim the hood setting SEAM ALLOWANCES to a width of 0.5 cm, overlock them together, and press down. Press the shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES forward.
- Fold the allowance along the front edge of the hood and the allowances along the front placket twice to the wrong side to a width of 3.5 cm. Topstitch the resulting placket and the allowance along the front edge of the hood close to the edge.
- Sew the side seams. Press the hem allowance of the blouse to the wrong side, fold under to a width of 1.5 cm, and topstitch.
- Sew the SLEEVE seams. Overlock and press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Press the hem allowance of the SLEEVE to the wrong side, fold under to a width of 1.5 cm, and topstitch.
- Set in the SLEEVES. Ease each SLEEVE cap between the NOTCHES. To do this, run a machine stitch with a large stitch on both sides of the marked SLEEVE setting seam line, and gently pull the fabric on the bobbin thread. Fold the SLEEVE with the garment right sides together and pin into the armhole, initially only in its lower part, aligning the SLEEVE seam with the side seam and the transverse NOTCHES on the FRONT PANEL and SLEEVE. Do not ease either the armhole or the SLEEVE at this point! Pin the SLEEVE above the blouse's shoulder seam, aligning the transverse NOTCH on the SLEEVE cap with the seam. Then pin the SLEEVE into the upper part of the armhole, easing it slightly and evenly. Baste and stitch the SLEEVE from the SLEEVE side, starting the stitching at the SLEEVE seam. Overlock the SEAM ALLOWANCES together. In the cap area, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the SLEEVE.
- Along the right FRONT PANEL placket, overlock 5 buttonholes, and sew buttons onto the left.
