Oversized Double-Breasted Coat with Patch Pockets
Introduce a striking and sophisticated silhouette with this made-to-measure sewing pattern for an oversized double-breasted coat, featuring elegant wide lapels, large functional patch pockets, and a cinched waist.
When To Wear
This versatile coat is perfect for adding a touch of tailored elegance to your cold-weather wardrobe, suitable for:
- Elevated Daily Wear: a chic outer layer for running errands or casual outings with a sophisticated twist.
- Business & Professional Settings: Drape over office attire for a polished and commanding presence.
- Special Occasions & Evenings: Make a statement at events where warmth and refined style are essential.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: An oversized, loose-fitting silhouette that can be cinched at the waist with a belt, creating a flattering, slightly flared, maxi-length profile.
Collar & Lapel: Features a classic wide notched lapel collar, providing a timeless and sophisticated neckline.
Closure: Double-breasted front with button closure, complemented by a fabric belt with a buckle to define the waist.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves finished with stylish cuff tabs (patas) and button detailing.
Pockets: Two prominent, functional patch pockets on the front, each secured with a shaped flap.
Back: Designed with a clean center back seam, incorporating a practical vent for ease of movement.
Length: Maxi length, gracefully falling from mid-calf to ankle.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. This pattern involves intricate tailoring techniques, including precise collar and lapel construction, full lining, setting in sleeves, and creating detailed patch pockets with flaps and a back vent.
Fabric Recommendations
Select medium to heavy-weight coating fabrics with good drape and structure, along with a suitable lining:
- Wool or cashmere blends
- Heavy gabardine or tweed
- Dense coating fabrics
- Silky lining fabrics
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing for structure
- 6 buttons (for front closure and cuff tabs)
- 1 belt buckle
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back - qty 2
- 2. Back neck facing - qty 1 on fold
- 3. Front facing - qty 2
- 4. Pocket - qty 2
- 5. Front - qty 2
- 6. Collar - qty 2
- 7. Pocket flap - qty 4
- 8. Belt - qty 1
- 9. Lower tab - qty 4
- 10. Upper tab - qty 4
- 11. Sleeve - qty 2
- If the pattern pieces have a double outline, they include seam allowances. If the outline is single, they do not include seam allowances.
- From lining:
- 12. Back - qty 2
- 13. Front - qty 2
- 14. Sleeve - qty 2
- From fusible interfacing: reinforce the front facings, back neck facing, undercollar, and pocket flaps with interfacing. Additionally, press the interfacing to the hem allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the front facings, undercollar, pocket flaps, and back neck facing with fusible interfacing (Heat-activated interfacings are pressed to the wrong side of the fabric with a hot iron).
- Fold pocket flap pieces right sides together, stitch along the outer edges, turn right side out, press, and topstitch at a distance of 5 mm.
- Press the top hem of the pocket to the inside, turn under the edge, and stitch along the edge.
- Press the outer edges of the patch pocket to the inside, place the pocket on the main garment according to markings, and topstitch.
- Place the patch pocket flap, turned upwards, on the right side of the coat and stitch. Turn the flap downwards, press, and topstitch.
- Stitch the center back seam up to the vent, press allowances to the left back, topstitch the left back along the seam.
- Sew the side and shoulder seams.
- Fold the sleeve tabs in half lengthwise and stitch neatly, leaving the slanted ends open, and topstitch.
- Place the tabs on the sleeve and baste between the transverse markings, with the open end of the tab lying on the sleeve edge allowance.
- Sew the sleeve seams. Press the seam allowances open.
- Attach the undercollar to the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facings; attach the upper collar to the neckline of the facing and front facings; press allowances open, clip curves.
- Place the upper collar, combined with the front facings, on the main garment right side in and stitch the fronts and collar; turn right side out and press; hand stitch the edge of the upper collar to the neckline.
- From the right side of the garment, turn out and straighten the front and collar, baste.
- Bottom edge: lay the front facings forward. Turn the hem allowances to the wrong side and stitch. Turn the front facings to the wrong side. Topstitch the fronts and collar at a distance of 1.0 cm.
- Set in the sleeves. Topstitch the coat close to the sleeve attachment seams. Attach shoulder pads.
- Back vent: press the left edge of the vent to the wrong side, stitch to the hem allowances. On the right vent allowance, press the integrated facing to the wrong side, stitch to the hem allowances. Pin the vent along the matching lines. Hem the bottom. Topstitch the left back diagonally at the top of the vent, catching the vent allowance.
- Stitch the lining pieces. Stitch the lining to the lower sleeve edges, inner edges of the front facings, and back neck facing.
- Carefully pin the lining in the area of the back vent. Cut the lining along the vent accordingly, remembering the allowances! Turn under the edges of the lining and stitch to the vent edges. Hem the lining.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch neatly along the long and one short side, turn right side out and press the folds. Turning under the open edge, topstitch around the perimeter of the belt at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- On the right front, make 2 buttonholes, on the left front - the top buttonhole for the underbutton, fasten the tabs with buttons. Sew buttons in the corresponding places.
