Designer Inspired Jacket
Introducing a sophisticated women's jacket pattern, distinguished by its structured, collarless design, lower welt pockets with buttoned flaps and decorative buttoned flaps at the chest.
When To Wear
This tailored jacket is a versatile piece, suitable for a range of occasions:
- Professional & Business Casual: Elevate your office attire with its polished and structured silhouette.
- Semi-Formal Gatherings: a chic layer for events requiring a refined yet comfortable ensemble.
- Smart Everyday Style: Pair with trousers or jeans for a sophisticated daytime look.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, straight-cut silhouette shaped with darts, fully lined, for a structured yet comfortable fit.
Neckline: Features a classic round, collarless neckline, offering a clean and elegant finish.
Closure: Single-breasted front fastened with large buttons and buttonholes.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a buttoned vent at the hem, supported by shoulder pads.
Pockets: Two lower welt pockets with flaps; two smaller decorative flaps (no pocket) are stitched on at the chest. Every flap is fastened with a small button.
Back: a clean back cut in one piece on the fold, shaped with darts.
Length: Sits at the hip, providing a contemporary and flattering length.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with set-in two-piece sleeves with vents, constructing welt pockets with flaps, and working with lining and interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight woven fabrics with some body to maintain the structured silhouette:
- Boucle
- Tweed
- Textured suiting fabrics
- Gabardine
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Large buttons for the front closure
- Small buttons for the 4 flaps and the sleeve vents
- Shoulder pads
- Wadding strips about 4 cm wide (sleeve heads)
Cutter's Must
- Main fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
- Lower Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
- Additional:
- 2 bias pocket facing strips, 18 cm long and 3 cm wide each, including seam allowances
- Fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- Lower Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- Lining:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- Lower Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch all darts. Press the front darts open; press the back darts towards the side seams.
- Place the Upper Pocket Flap pieces and the Lower Pocket Flap pieces right sides together in pairs, stitch along the sides and lower edge, turn and press. Make a buttonhole for a small button on each flap.
- Make the lower welt pockets with flaps on the Fronts. Place the Lower Pocket Flap and the bias facing strip of each pocket on the Front, right sides together, and stitch along the markings. Cut the Front between the stitching lines, clipping diagonally into the ends. Take care not to cut the flap and facing strip!
- Press the facing attachment seam allowances open. Turn the facing strip through the opening to the wrong side, wrapping it around the seam allowance, and from the right side stitch in the ditch of the facing seam. Press the flap downwards.
- From the wrong side of the jacket, stitch the lining pocket bag to the facing seam allowances, and the other pocket bag to the flap seam allowances. Fold the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch them to the pocket bag exactly from the end of one stitching line to the end of the other. Trim the pocket bags even and stitch them together.
- Stitch the small Upper Pocket Flaps to the Fronts along the marked seam lines and press them downwards.
- Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings. Place the facings on the jacket, right sides together, pin, and stitch along the lower edges of the Fronts, the front edges and the neckline. Turn and press the edges.
- Press the jacket hem allowance to the wrong side and hand stitch. Stitch the Center Front Facings to the hem allowance.
- Two-piece sleeves: stitch the sleeve seams. Hem the sleeves. Press the vent edges. On the wrong side of the sleeve, stitch the long and upper short edges of the cut-on vent facing and the vent underlap together. Stitch small buttons according to markings, catching the vent allowance.
- Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve caps. Sew a strip of wadding about 4 cm wide to the armhole seam allowances along the sleeve cap. Sew in the shoulder pads.
- Lining: baste an ease pleat in the lining Back and press it to one side.
- On the lining pattern pieces, stitch darts and sew seams. Place the lining on the jacket right sides together, pin, and stitch it to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, leaving sections approximately 10 cm long open at the bottom.
- Fold the lining with the jacket wrong sides together. Turn up the lining, pull it slightly upwards for ease, and stitch. Close the remaining open sections of the lining seams (at the Center Front Facings).
- Stitch the lining sleeves to the jacket sleeve hem allowances, leaving an ease fold as above.
- Make buttonholes for the large buttons on the right Front; sew the large buttons onto the left Front. Sew small buttons onto the Fronts to match the flap buttonholes.
