Long Double-Breasted Raincoat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• COLLAR - QTY 2 on fold
• COLLAR STAND - QTY 2 on fold
• SLEEVE - QTY 2
• FRONT FACING - QTY 2
• Pocket - QTY 4
• strip for 6 belt loops, 55 cm long and 3 cm wide, 1.5 cm finished;
• From LINING:
• FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• SLEEVE - QTY 2
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
• COLLAR - QTY 1 on fold
• COLLAR STAND - QTY 1 on fold
• FRONT FACING - QTY 2
• Pocket - QTY 2

Sewing Instructions

1. Attach front yokes to FRONT PANELS and topstitch close to seams and at 1 cm distance.
2. Sew the center back seam, topstitch the left BACK PANEL along the seam.
3. Sew side and shoulder seams, topstitch front yokes and FRONT PANELS along the seams.
4. Collar with lapels. Attach FRONT FACINGS to the edges of the fronts and lapels up to the cross mark and leave them lying on the FRONT PANELS for now. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the stitching.
5. Attach COLLAR STAND pieces to COLLAR pieces, topstitch each resulting piece on both sides of the seam close to the seam.
6. Neatly understitch the COLLAR along the outer contour, slightly easing the upper COLLAR. Insert the COLLAR on each side between the FRONT PANEL and the FRONT FACING.
7. Attach the lower COLLAR with the stand to the neckline of the coat, attach the upper COLLAR with the stand to the necklines of the FRONT FACINGS. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and lower COLLAR attachment seams several times and press open.
8. Turn FRONT FACINGS to the wrong side. Pin the attachment seams precisely and sew the SEAM ALLOWANCES of these seams from the wrong side of the garment.
9. From the back, lay the upper COLLAR flat over the seam attaching the lower COLLAR to the back neckline and topstitch from the right side of the garment exactly in the seam.
10. Turn the hem allowance of the coat to the wrong side up to the FRONT FACINGS and topstitch at 3 cm distance.
11. Topstitch the coat along the fronts, lapels, and the outer contour of the COLLAR at the edge and at 1 cm distance.
12. Neatly understitch the pockets along the contour. Topstitch the flap of each pocket above the fold line. Topstitch the pockets onto the FRONT PANELS along the alignment lines. Press the flaps down.
13. Neatly understitch the strip for the belt loops and topstitch at the edge. Cut the strip into 6 equal parts and topstitch the belt loops over the side seams and onto the SLEEVES.
14. Sew the SLEEVE seams. Press the hem allowances of the SLEEVES to the wrong side and topstitch.
15. Set in the SLEEVES. Topstitch the coat close to the SLEEVE attachment seams. Attach shoulder pads.
16. On the LINING pieces, sew the seams, leaving the shoulder edges of the BACK PANEL protruding at the neckline. Set in the SLEEVES.
17. Attach the LINING to the FRONT FACINGS, leaving open sections approx. 10 cm long at the bottom. At the top, hand-sew the LINING to the FRONT FACINGS and COLLAR STAND.
18. Insert each LINING SLEEVE into the coat SLEEVE, turn under in one place and pin to the SLEEVE hem allowance. Through the open bottom of the coat, reach your hand between the garment and the LINING and pull the SLEEVE out. Attach the LINING SLEEVE to the coat SLEEVE hem allowance. Straighten the SLEEVE.
19. Turn under the LINING and topstitch so that the LINING is approx. 1 cm shorter than the coat.
20. Complete the remaining open sections of the LINING seams (at the FRONT FACINGS). Sew the FRONT FACINGS to the hem allowance.
21. Neatly understitch the SLEEVE tabs, beveling one end of each tab to a point. Topstitch the tabs.
22. On the right FRONT PANEL, make 3 buttonholes, on the left FRONT PANEL - the top buttonhole for an under-button, on the pointed ends of the tabs - 2 buttonholes each (one behind the other). Sew buttons in the corresponding places.