Tailored Straight Leg Trousers with Single Welt Pockets
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for tailored straight leg trousers, featuring a polished flat front, a comfortable straight fit, and elegant single welt back pockets.
When To Wear
These versatile trousers are designed for a range of occasions, offering both professionalism and style:
- Professional Settings: Ideal for office wear, business meetings, or any environment requiring a smart, put-together look.
- Smart Casual Gatherings: Easily dressed down for social events while maintaining an elevated sense of style.
- Formal Events: When paired with a matching blazer, these trousers create a sophisticated suit suitable for more formal occasions.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Full-length, straight-leg trousers with a tailored, comfortable fit through the hip and thigh.
Waist: Flat front waistband designed for a smooth, refined appearance, fastened with a button closure.
Pockets: Practical angled slash pockets at the front and stylish single welt pockets at the back.
Closure: Front fly with a zipper for a clean finish.
Hem: Straight, clean-finished hemline allowing for easy length adjustment.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires confident sewing skills, including the construction of a zipper fly, single welt pockets, and a fitted waistband.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose suiting fabrics with good drape and structure for a refined finish:
- Wool suiting
- Gabardine
- Crepe
- Blended suiting fabrics
Additional Supplies
- 1 zipper, 20 cm (approx. 8 inches)
- 1 button
- Fusible interfacing for the waistband
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Front - 2 qty
- 2. Back - 2 qty
- 3. Waistband - 1 qty
- 4. Pocket bag - 4 qty
- 5. Pocket facing - 4 qty
- From fusible interfacing: reinforce waistband with fusible interfacing.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the waistband with fusible interfacing (Heat-adhesive interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the piece with a strongly heated iron).
- Stitch darts, press dart fullness towards the center seam line.
- Make welt pockets: on the wrong side of the front, iron a strip of fusible interfacing approx. 4 cm wide over the pocket marking.
- Fold both pocket facings with the front right sides together, pin along the marked pocket opening line and stitch along the marking, aligning the longitudinal edges of the facings exactly with the pocket opening line.
- Cut the front lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the facings! Press seam allowances towards the trousers.
- Turn the facings to the wrong side to form a neat welt, and baste.
- From the right side of the trousers, stitch precisely into the seams where the facings were attached.
- Turn the small triangles at the ends of the cut to the wrong side and topstitch onto the facings precisely from the ends of one stitching line to the ends of the other.
- From the wrong side of the trousers, stitch the pocket bags to the seam allowances of the facing attachment seams, press the pocket bags downwards, trim, evening out, and stitch.
- Complete the side and inseams. Overlock seam allowances and press open.
- Stitch the fly edges from the fastener mark downwards and, without interrupting the stitching, complete the back center seam.
- Press the integrated fastener facings to the wrong side: on the right half - along the center front line, on the left - along the marked fold line (= fastener allowance).
- Stitch the zipper under the edge of the fastener allowance (left side) to the edge, positioning the teeth close to the fold.
- Pin the opening, aligning the center front lines.
- Stitch the free tape of the zipper to the facing of the right side of the fastener, without catching the fabric of the front.
- Topstitch the right front along the fastener, catching the facing.
- Stitch the waistband to the upper edge of the trousers, leaving the end extending beyond the fastener edges (right side) by 3 cm.
- Turn the waistband in half to the right side and stitch the ends, beveling the short edges of the fastener allowance.
- Trim seam allowances close to the stitching. Turn the waistband out.
- Fold the inner half of the waistband under and hand stitch.
- On the right end of the waistband, overlock a buttonhole; on the left, sew a button.
- Overlock the bottom edges, press the hem allowance to the wrong side and hand stitch.
