Long Double Breasted Flared Coat
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a sophisticated long, double-breasted lined coat with a fitted, princess-seamed bodice that flares to the hem, a notched collar, welt pockets in the seams and a buttoned half-belt over a back pleat.
When To Wear
This elegant coat is perfectly suited for a variety of occasions where style, warmth, and a sophisticated silhouette are desired:
- Formal Gatherings: Ideal for adding a polished layer to evening wear or professional attire.
- Everyday Elegance: Perfect for sophisticated daily wear, elevating any casual or business ensemble.
- Cooler Seasons: Offers excellent warmth and coverage for autumn and winter climates.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bust and waist, flaring towards the hem through long vertical panel seams on the front and back for an elegant, elongated profile.
Collar & Lapel: A notched lapel collar; the upper collar is cut in one with the front facings.
Closure: Double-breasted front closure with eight buttons in two rows.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a vent in the elbow seam.
Pockets: Vertical welt pockets set into the front panel seams, with the welts topstitched 0.5 cm from the edges.
Back: A center back panel cut on the fold, side back panels, and a lower back with a center seam and an inverted pleat; a buttoned half-belt (strap) covers the seam joining the center back and lower back.
Length: A maxi length, falling to the ankle, ensuring ample coverage and a dramatic silhouette.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires confident tailoring skills including precise panel assembly, in-seam welt pockets, a cut-in collar with facings, sleeve vents and full lining insertion.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium to heavy-weight fabrics with good drape and structure, suitable for outerwear:
- Wool coatings
- Wool blends
- Cashmere or cashmere blends
- Gabardine
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 10 buttons (8 for the front closure, 2 for the back strap)
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back 2 – 2 pieces
- Side Back 1 – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Strap – 2 pieces
- Pocket Off-Set Welt – 4 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Side Front 2 – 2 pieces
- Side Front 1 – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric (lining pattern pieces):
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Front – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Pocket Off-Set Welt (lower/under layers) – 2 pieces
- Strap – 1 piece
- Strips for the hem allowances
Attention! The Pocket Bag and the lining Back, Front, Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve pattern pieces are cut from lining fabric only.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the center seam of the Lower Back and press it open. Matching the notches, fold and baste the pleat. Then stitch it in place, stitching through the upper allowance slightly above the marked stitching line.
- Assemble the back: stitch the Center Back to the Lower Back, then stitch the panel seams (Side Back 1 and Side Back 2).
- Place the two Strap pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides, turn right side out and press. Turn in the open edge and topstitch around the Strap 0.5 cm from the edges. Attach the Strap to the back with buttons, covering the seam joining the Center Back and the Lower Back.
- Place two Pocket Off-Set Welt pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides, turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the edges of the welt 0.5 cm from the edge. Align the open edges of the welt with the panel seam edge of Side Front 2, placing the welt on the right side of Side Front 2 with its upper end at the notch; place one Pocket Bag on top of the welt and baste all layers together. Place the second Pocket Bag on the right side of Side Front 1. Stitch the welt and pocket bags in place. Stitch the front panel seams. Turn the pocket bags to the inside, align them and stitch them together. Stitch the short ends of the welts to the front, stitching over the topstitching line.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the center back seam of the upper collar, which is cut in one with the Center Front Facings. Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Set the under collar into the neckline of the coat and the upper collar into the neckline of the facings. Press the seam allowances open.
- Place the Center Front Facings on the fronts, right sides together, and pin along the front edges; pin the edges of the upper and under collar together. Stitch along the front edges and around the collar and turn. Stitch together, from the inside, the pressed-open allowances of the under collar seam and the Back Neckline Facing seam.
- Hem the coat.
- Stitch the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve seams, making the vent in the elbow seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes, easing the sleeve cap.
- Attach the shoulder pads.
- Sew the lining pieces together. Stitch the lining to the lower edges of the sleeves, the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Hem the lining.
- Make the buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
