Long Double Breasted Flared Coat
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a sophisticated long, double-breasted coat featuring a fitted bodice, gracefully flared silhouette, and tailored construction details.
When To Wear
This elegant coat is perfectly suited for a variety of occasions where style, warmth, and a sophisticated silhouette are desired:
- Formal Gatherings: Ideal for adding a polished layer to evening wear or professional attire.
- Everyday Elegance: Perfect for sophisticated daily wear, elevating any casual or business ensemble.
- Cooler Seasons: Offers excellent warmth and coverage for autumn and winter climates.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored fit through the bodice and waist, gradually flaring into a full, a-line skirt for an elegant, elongated profile.
Collar & Lapel: Features a classic notched lapel and a structured collar, framing the neckline with timeless style.
Closure: a distinguished double-breasted front closure secured with multiple buttons.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves provide a smooth, tailored fit around the arms.
Pockets: Tailored horizontal pockets with a 'leaf' detail, integrated seamlessly into the front princess seams for a refined finish.
Back: Designed with multiple vertical panels for shaping, and includes a decorative back strap attached with buttons, enhancing the waist definition and featuring a central back pleat for ease of movement.
Length: a maxi length, falling gracefully to the calf or ankle, ensuring ample coverage and a dramatic silhouette.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires confident tailoring skills including precise panel assembly, double-breasted construction, tailored pocket creation, collar setting, and full lining insertion.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium to heavy-weight fabrics with good drape and structure, suitable for outerwear:
- Wool coatings
- Wool blends
- Cashmere or cashmere blends
- Gabardine
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 8 buttons (for front closure & back strap)
Cutter's Must
- Back lower - qty 2
- Back side 2 - qty 2
- Back side 1 - qty 2
- Back central - qty 1 on fold
- Back neck facing - qty 1 on fold
- Tab - qty 2
- Pocket lip - qty 4
- Pocket bag - qty 4
- Front central - qty 2
- Front facing - qty 2
- Front side 2 - qty 2
- Front side 1 - qty 2
- Sleeve upper - qty 2
- Sleeve lower - qty 2
- Sleeve upper lining - qty 2
- Sleeve lower lining - qty 2
- Back lining - qty 1 on fold
- Front lining - qty 2
Attention! Pattern pieces marked with * are cut from lining fabric only.
Fusible interfacing: Reinforce the front facings, back neck facing, lower parts of the pocket lips, and the tab with fusible interfacing. Additionally, press fusible interfacing to the hem allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Sew the center seam of the back lower, press open. Aligning the notches, create and baste the pleat. Then stitch it, sewing along the upper allowance slightly above the marked stitch line.
- Assemble the back: stitch the seam connecting the back central to the back lower, and the relief seams.
- Stitch the tab along three sides, turn right side out, and press the folds. Turning under the open edge, stitch along the edges of the tab at a distance of 0.5 cm. Attach the tab to the back with buttons, covering the seam connecting the back central to the back lower.
- Stitch the pocket lip piece along three sides, turn right side out, and press the folds. Topstitch along the edges of the pocket lip at a distance of 0.5 cm. Align the open edges of the pocket lip with the relief edge of front side 2, placing the pocket lip on the right side of front side 2 and aligning the upper edge of the pocket lip with the notch; place the upper of the pocket bag on top of the pocket lip, baste all together. Place the lower of the pocket bag on the right side of front side 1. Stitch the pocket lip and pocket bags. Stitch the front relief seams. Turn the pocket bags inwards, align, and stitch. Topstitch the short sides of the pocket lips to the front into the topstitch seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- On the upper collar, cut in one piece with the front facings, sew the center seam. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and the back neck facing. Insert the lower collar into the coat neckline, insert the upper collar into the facing neckline. Press the seam allowances of the insertion seams open.
- Fold the front facings with the front panels right sides together and pin to the edges of the fronts, pin the edges of the upper and lower collar. Clean finish the coat along the fronts and collar. Sew the pressed open seam allowances of the lower collar insertion and the back neck facing from the inside.
- Hem the bottom of the coat.
- Sew the sleeve seams, finish the vent in the elbow seam. Insert the sleeves into the coat armholes, easing the sleeve cap.
- Attach the shoulder pads.
- Stitch the cut pieces from the lining fabric. Stitch the lining to the lower edges of the sleeves, the inner edges of the front facings, and the back neck facing. Hem the lining.
- On the right front, overlock the buttonholes, on the left, sew on the buttons.
