Short Sleeve Princess Seam Blouse-Jacket
Introducing a sophisticated women's blouse-jacket sewing pattern, featuring elegant princess seams, a notched collar, and a unique back tab detail for a tailored finish.
When To Wear
This versatile blouse-jacket is perfect for adding a polished touch to any ensemble, making it ideal for:
- Professional Settings: a smart and comfortable alternative to a traditional blazer, suitable for the office or business meetings.
- Casual Chic Outings: Pairs effortlessly with trousers or skirts for elevated daytime wear or social gatherings.
- Transitional Weather Layering: Offers a stylish, light layer for spring or autumn, adaptable to various climates.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the torso with shaping provided by princess seams at both front and back.
Neckline & Collar: a classic notched collar with lapels, topstitched along the edges for a structured and polished look.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a three-button closure.
Sleeves: Short, set-in sleeves with a subtle ease at the cap for a smooth fit.
Back: Features a center back seam and princess seams, with a topstitched strap (half-belt) inserted into the princess seams at the back waist.
Length: Finishes at hip length, designed to be worn untucked or as a light outer layer.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in tailoring including collar and lapel construction, princess seams, buttonholes, and setting sleeves with ease.
Fabric Recommendations
Select medium-weight woven fabrics with good body and drape to maintain the tailored shape:
- Suiting fabrics (e.g., gabardine, twill)
- Linen or linen blends
- Cotton sateen or poplin
- Crepe
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Strap – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece on fold
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing (reinforce the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing):
- Fusible Interfacing for Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece on fold
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the Strap pieces together along the long sides, turn right side out and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edges.
- Stitch the center back seam and the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), inserting the Strap into the princess seams.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front).
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- Place the Center Front Facings on the fronts right sides together, pin along the front edges and stitch the front edges. Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing.
- Stitch the Collar pieces together along the outer edge, turn and press. Sew the under collar to the neckline of the blouse and the upper collar to the neckline of the facings. Press seam allowances open. From the inside, stitch together the pressed-open seam allowances of the under collar seam and the Back Neckline Facing seam.
- Hem the jacket. Slipstitch the Center Front Facings to the hem allowance.
- Topstitch the blouse along the front edges and the collar 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the Sleeve seams. Hem the Sleeves and set them into the armholes, easing the sleeve cap.
- Work buttonholes on the right front and sew buttons on the left front.
- Sew in the shoulder pads.
