Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers in related or contrasting colors. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; 2 zippers; 1 separating zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 3.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From main fabric 1:
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
ATTENTION: Back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch shoulder darts, press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch center back seam, press seam allowances open.
- Attach yoke to front, press seam allowances towards the yoke. Stitch front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center.
- Mark pocket placement with parallel lines. Cut the opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the marking, make diagonal cuts. Turn seam allowances to the wrong side through the opening, straighten edges. Place the zipper under the edges of the opening so that the teeth are visible and stitch.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances open.
- Fold collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip curves, trim corners. Turn collar stand right side out, straighten, press. Attach collar stand to neckline.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press seam allowances open. Place the left side of the zipper according to the marking on the left front and topstitch.
- Attach the right side of the zipper to the edge of the right front facing, with teeth pointing away from the edge. Place front facings right sides together with the garment and stitch along the front edges, neckline edge (collar stand is positioned between the facing and the main garment) and the lower corner of the front edge. Clip curves, trim corners, turn pieces right side out. Topstitch along the front edge and lapel at 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
- Stitch elbow seam of sleeve, press seam allowances open. Press up sleeve hem. Stitch front seam of sleeve, press seam allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches.
- On lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press lining seam allowances.
- Attach lining to front facings and neckline facing, press seam allowances. Turn garment right side out, straighten seams.
- Mark and press up the garment hem. Finish sleeve and garment hems with lining. Turn jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
