Pleated Yoke Puffed Sleeve Blouse

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: thin fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, chiffon. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 2 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front - 1 piece on fold
  • Yoke - 1 piece on fold
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back facing – 4 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing – 1 piece
  • Back facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Finish the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the mark downwards. Press seam allowances open, pressing the slit. Stitch a reinforcing line along the slit 0.2 cm from the edge.
3. Form and secure box pleats on the front yoke.
4. Attach the yoke to the front. Finish seam allowances and press downwards.
5. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the blouse. Press seams towards the back and finish.
6. Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 5 cm long for the rouleau loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out, and straighten the rouleau. Cut into two parts. Adjust the length of the loops.
7. Place facing pieces right sides together and stitch along the neckline edge, starting and ending the stitching exactly at the attachment line of the facings. Insert the rouleau loops between the facings on the right side. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the facing right side out, and press. Attach the outer facing to the neckline, fold the raw edge of the inner facing inwards, and topstitch into the attachment seam of the upper facing.
8. At the lower edge of the sleeve, form and secure a box pleat. Stitch and finish the sleeve edges. Stitch the cuff into a loop. Press seam allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner cuff inwards, and stitch into the attachment seam of the upper cuff. Set sleeves into armholes. Finish the seam.
9. Press the hem of the garment to the wrong side, 1 cm inwards, and topstitch.
10. Sew buttons on the left side of the neckline facing.