Asymmetrical Shawl Collar Gathered Jumper

Fabric & Materials

Also needed: 3 buttons; knit fusible interfacing.

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: hem allowance for the garment bottom, sleeve hem – 2 cm, other seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.

• From main fabric:
  • Front – 1 piece
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Collar – 4 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Welt and pocket bags
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Welt

Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

1. Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt lengthwise in half, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag through the opening to the wrong side. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
2. Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 13 cm long for the loop closures. Fold the strip lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out, and press to form a rouleau. Cut into three parts. Adjust loop length.
3. Interface the collar pieces with fusible interfacing. Stitch the collar pieces in pairs along the center seam, press seam allowances open. Fold the collar right sides together and stitch along the outer edge, inserting the loop closures on the right side according to the markings. Turn the collar right side out, press. Overlap the right side of the collar over the left and secure along the lower edge.
4. Along the upper edge of the center front, make a gathering stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the collar piece to the front, press seam allowances and overlock.
5. Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances and overlock.
6. Attach the collar to the back neckline, clipping into corners, press seam allowances and overlock.
7. Set sleeves into open armholes, matching notches, press seam allowances and overlock. Stitch sleeve seams simultaneously with side seams, press seam allowances and overlock.
8. Overlock the bottom edge of the garment and the sleeve hem, fold to the wrong side, press and topstitch.
9. Sew on buttons according to markings. Secure the left side of the collar from the wrong side to the attachment seam.