Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom — 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical parts). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! Markings on the patterns are made on the right side.
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Upper right front part - 1 piece
- Upper left front part - 1 piece
- Upper side front part - 2 pieces
- Lower center front part - 1 piece on fold
- Lower side front part - 2 pieces
- Welt pocket flap — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
- Right front neckline facing — 1 piece
- Left front neckline facing — 1 piece
- Pocket bag — 4 pieces
- Front waistband – 1 piece
- Back waistband – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Welt pocket flap — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
- Right front neckline facing — 1 piece
- Left front neckline facing — 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the upper back part, press seam allowances towards the center. Attach the back waistband. Overcast the seam allowance and press it downwards. On the lower back part, create and secure a pleat. Direct the depth towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
- Overcast the center back seam separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch darts on the upper front parts, press seam allowances upwards. Stitch the princess seams of the front, press seam allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Overcast the outer edge of the left front neckline facing. Place the facing on the left upper front, right sides together, and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, press.
- Overcast the outer edge of the right front neckline facing. Place the right upper front part with the left upper front part, right sides together. Place the neckline facing on the right upper front, right sides together (the left front is positioned between the main piece and the facing) and stitch the neckline edge, continuing the seam down to the lower edge. Overcast seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, press. Attach the front waistband to the upper part. Overcast the seam allowance and press it towards the waistband.
- Fold the welt pocket flap piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the flap to the right side, shape, press. Attach the pocket bag to the flap.
- On the right side of the lower side front part, place one pocket bag. On the lower center front part, place the pocket bag with the attached flap, right side down, aligning with the notches. Stitch the pocket bag to the seam allowance of the pocket opening. Fold back the seam of the side front part and topstitch it to the pocket lining.
- Stitch the princess seams of the lower front part simultaneously with the pocket bag. Press seam allowances towards the center and overcast. Topstitch the short sides of the welt pocket flap to the side part. Attach the lower front part to the front waistband. Overcast the seam allowance and press it towards the waistband.
- Overcast the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Place the back neckline facing on the main piece, right sides together, and stitch the neckline edge exactly up to the marked shoulder seam line. Clip seam allowances at the curve.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, placing the front shoulder seam between the back shoulder seam and the facing. Press seam allowances towards the back, overcast. Turn the pieces to the right side, press.
- Stitch the side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding on the armhole edge, right sides together, and stitch. Clip seam allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Overcast the hem allowance of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
