Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: low-stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: two eyelets, two cord stoppers, decorative cord.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Center front – 1 piece on fold
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 2 pieces
- Hood – 4 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 1 piece on fold
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the ends. Turn the piece right side out, straighten, and press. Place the welt according to the markings on the side front piece and topstitch the ends.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and serge.
- Attach the yoke to the sleeve, press allowances towards the yoke and serge.
- Attach sleeves to the back, press allowances towards the back and serge. Attach sleeves to the front, press allowances towards the front and serge.
- Stitch the side seams simultaneously with the sleeve seam, press allowances and serge.
- Stitch the hood pieces in pairs. Punch eyelets on the outer hood according to the markings. Place hood pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn the piece right side out, straighten, and press. Topstitch along the edge according to the markings, forming a casing. Overlap the right side of the hood over the left and secure at the bottom edge.
- Attach the hood to the neckline, press allowances and serge.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Attach the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve, stretching it to the desired length. Press allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the bottom placket into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the bottom placket in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Attach the bottom placket to the lower edge, stretching it to the desired length. Press allowances upwards and serge.
- Thread the cord through the hood, secure the cord stoppers.
Tip: for cuffs and placket, ready-made cuffs and ribbing can also be used.
