Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: Dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 6 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance - 6 cm; sleeve hem - 2 cm; top pocket allowance - 3 cm; other seams - 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front - 1 piece on fold
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Short placket — 3 pieces
- Long placket – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Neckline facing – 1 piece
- Short placket – 1 piece
- Long placket – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Place neckline facing pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked seam line for attaching. Clip allowances at curves. Turn the finished facing right side out and press.
- Placket construction: Left side. Fold short placket pieces and stitch the outer edge. Turn pieces right side out and press. Stitch one edge of the placket to the front, directing the allowance towards the placket. Fold the allowance of the inner side of the placket inwards and topstitch into the seam of the upper placket. Right side. Place short and long plackets right sides together. Stitch along the center edge. End the stitching strictly at the marked hemline. Turn plackets right side out and press. Place the short placket right side down on the wrong side of the front and stitch, directing the allowance towards the placket and pressing. Place the right placket over the left and secure the plackets at the bottom edge, folding back the upper placket so it doesn't get caught in the seam. Fold the allowance of the upper placket inwards, forming a corner. Topstitch from the right side in two steps: Along the placket, folding back the left part, and along the front (at the corner).
- Overlock the top edge of the pocket. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Place the pocket on the front according to the markings, fold the side and bottom allowances inwards and topstitch.
- Stitch the yoke to the back. Overlock the allowance and press upwards.
- Along the top edge of the front, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Stitch the yoke to the front, press allowances towards the yoke and overlock.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the upper facing to the neckline, press allowances towards the facing. Fold under the raw edge of the lower facing and topstitch into the seam of the upper facing.
- Fold the tabs in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short edges. Turn right side out, trimming allowances at corners, straighten and press. Overlock the raw short edge. Topstitch the tabs onto the wrong side of the sleeves according to the markings.
- Stitch sleeve seams, press towards the back and overlock. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overlock.
- Fold the hem of the garment inwards by 1 cm, then by 5 cm and topstitch. Fold the sleeve hem inwards twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
- On the left front - sew on buttons. Overlock buttonholes on the tabs, sew on buttons on the sleeves.
