Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing, 3 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 1 piece
- Lower back part - 1 piece
- Back flounce - 1 piece
- Upper front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part - 2 pieces
- Front flounce - 2 pieces
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Collar - 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the upper back and front parts, trim dart depths on the front to 1 cm, press towards the center and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked line for collar attachment. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn collar right side out, shape and press.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Overcast the outer edge.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front part, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and lapel. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Turn front edges right side out, shape seams.
- Attach the undercollar to the neckline of the main garment, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facings. Press collar attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seam.
- Stitch upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and overcast. Attach flounce to the back, press allowances upwards and overcast.
- Stitch upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and overcast. Attach flounce to the front, press allowances upwards and overcast.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold cuff lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve, overcast allowances. Turn cuff to the right side.
- Press the bottom edge to the wrong side by 0.5 cm, then another 0.5 cm and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes and sew on buttons. Sew on a hidden button.
