Tapered Jean Style Trousers

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: denim fabrics with elastane. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 1 zipper; 1 button; cotton lining.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; upper allowance of back pocket – 3 cm; allowances for side and inseam seams – 2 cm; allowances for hem - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Front half – 2 pieces
  • Back half – 2 pieces
  • Back yoke - 2 pieces
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Side part – 2 pieces
  • Back pocket – 2 pieces
  • Fly facing – 1 piece
  • Fly – 1 piece
  • Waistband – 1 piece
  • Belt loop – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Pocket lining – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: waistband, fly, fly facing.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the waistband, fly, and fly facing with fusible interfacing.
2. Press the upper allowance of the back pocket to the wrong side, turn under and topstitch. Overcast the pocket edges, press the allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to the markings on the back half and topstitch.
3. Stitch the back yoke to the back half, press allowances towards the yoke, overcast.
4. Place the pocket lining on the front trouser half right sides together and stitch the pocket opening. Understitch the seam, clipping the allowances, and topstitch along the pocket opening 0.5 cm from the pocket edge and press. Align the front trouser half with the marking on the side part of the front half, which defines the pocket opening. Secure the side front half to the front trouser half along the upper and side edges with a 1 cm seam. Stitch and overcast the pocket lining.
5. Stitch the front yoke to the front half, press allowances towards the yoke, overcast.
6. Stitch the fly to the right front half. Overcast the front center edge and the fly edge on the front halves.
7. Stitch the center front seam of the front halves, starting the seam at the edge of the fly. Press the fly to the wrong side. Align the zipper with the center edge of the left half and stitch. Stitch the free tape of the zipper to the fly. Topstitch along the marked line on the right trouser half at 0.1 and 0.7 cm. Fold the fly facing in half wrong sides together and stitch the longitudinal and short lower edges. Overcast the open edges of the fly facing. Stitch the fly facing to the zipper attachment seam on the left half. Place a bar tack at the end of the closure on the right side of the trousers. On the wrong side, connect the lower ends of the fly and fly facing.
8. Overcast the back center edge. Stitch the center back seam. Topstitch a second seam along the seat seam next to the stitching line. Press allowances open.
9. Stitch, press, and overcast the side seams. Stitch, press, and overcast the inseam seams.
10. Overcast the lower edge of the waistband. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise wrong sides together and press.
11. Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise right sides together, align the edges and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn out, straighten the seam, placing it on the fold or forming a 0.1-0.2 cm wide edge on the inside, and press.
12. Cut the belt loops to size, mark the position of the belt loops on the waistband and stitch to the lower edge of the upper waistband. Stitch the waistband to the upper edge and stitch the waistband corners. Trim the corners and turn out the waistband. Topstitch the overcast edge into the waistband attachment seam. Topstitch the free ends of the belt loops to the upper edge of the waistband.
13. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side, turn under 1 cm and topstitch.