Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; separating zipper; shoulder pads, sleeve heads, 1 button.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Front lining – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece

ATTENTION: Back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Also fuse the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve hem.
2. Stitch darts on the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch center back seam, press allowances open.
3. Stitch front princess seams, press allowances towards the center.
4. Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
5. Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at curves. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press. Attach collar to the neckline.
6. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Place the left side of the separating zipper according to markings on the left front and topstitch. Place front facings and facing with the front right sides together and stitch the neckline, front edge, and bottom corner, inserting the right side of the separating zipper. Trim allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn facings right side out, shape seams, and press.
7. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve heads.
8. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. Attach lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing. Press the bottom edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach lining to the bottom of the garment and to the sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Close the opening.
9. On the left front, make a buttonhole. On the wrong side of the right front, sew a hidden button.