Short Jacket with Cable Knit Dolman Sleeves

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: jacket fabrics, quilted with synthetic padding; matching knit fabric. ALSO NEEDED: lining; separating zipper; bias tape.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 3 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the outer sleeve – 0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Front placket – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• From knit fabric:
  • Outer sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Lining back – 1 piece on fold
  • Lining front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Pocket bag – 4 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Stitch shoulder seams of side back and front pieces, press seams open. Set in sleeve into armhole, press seams. Stitch side seams of side back and front pieces simultaneously with sleeve seam, press seams open.
2. Stitch outer sleeve seam, press seam open. Fold outer sleeve with side piece wrong side to right side, secure along edges.
3. Stitch shoulder and side seams of back and front, press seams open.
4. Attach pocket bags to side front piece and to front piece. Stitch relief seams in a circle, simultaneously stitching pocket bags. Press seams towards the main piece and topstitch 0.5 – 0.7 cm from the seam.
5. Set in outer collar into neckline. Clip and press seams open.
6. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and neckline facing, press seams open. Set in inner collar into neckline, clip and press seams open.
7. Fold front placket lengthwise in the middle right sides together and stitch corners. Turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the outer fold, and along the upper and lower edges. Stitch the left half of the zipper to the placket, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the raw edge of the placket.
8. Place front facing on the right side of the front piece right side down and stitch along the front edge, inserting the zipper, simultaneously stitching the collar. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked hemline.
9. Stitch cuff into a loop. Press cuff lengthwise in the middle wrong side in. Attach cuff to the bottom of the sleeve.
10. On the lining fabric pieces, create a pleat on the front piece according to markings, stitch side and shoulder seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Set in sleeves.
11. Secure collar attachment allowances to the neckline. Attach lining to front facings and neckline facing. Turn garment right side out. Attach the bottom edge of the lining to the bottom edge. Attach lining to the bottom edge of the sleeve. Close the technical opening.
12. Bind the bottom edge of the outer sleeve with bias tape.