Stand Collar Pintuck Tab Sleeve Blouse

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 8 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece
  • Front - 1 piece on fold
  • Yoke – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Long placket – 1 piece
  • Short placket – 1 piece
  • Left placket – 1 piece
  • Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • upper placket
  • left placket
  • collar stand
  • cuff

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the details with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the waist and bust darts on the back and front. Press the waist darts towards the center of the pieces, and the bust darts upwards.
3. Fold and stitch the pleats on the yoke. Press the pleats towards the center of the front. Trim the yoke according to the pattern.
4. Placket processing: Left side. Fold the left placket lengthwise and press. Stitch one edge of the placket to the yoke, directing the seam allowance towards the placket. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the placket inwards and topstitch into the seam of the upper attachment. Right side. Fold the short and long plackets right sides together. Stitch along the center edge. Finish the stitching strictly at the marked stitching line. Turn the plackets right side out and press. Place the short placket right side up on the wrong side of the yoke and stitch, directing the seam allowance towards the placket and press. Place the right yoke over the left and secure the plackets at the bottom edge, folding back the upper placket so it doesn't get caught in the seam. Stitch the yokes to the front. Overlock the seam allowance, press towards the front. Fold the seam allowance of the upper placket inwards, forming a corner. Topstitch from the right side in two steps: Along the yoke, folding back the left part, and along the front (at the corner).
5. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge, starting and ending the stitching exactly at the collar stand attachment line. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, turn the collar stand right side out, and press.
6. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the blouse. Press the seams towards the back and overlock.
7. Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold under the open edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
8. Fold the tabs lengthwise in the middle, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short edges. Turn right side out, trimming seam allowances at the corners, straighten and press. Overlock the open short edge. Topstitch the tabs according to the markings on the wrong side of the sleeves.
9. Stitch and overlock the sleeve edges. Set in the sleeves, easing the cap. Overlock the seam.
10. Press the bottom of the garment and sleeves to the wrong side, fold under and topstitch.
11. On the placket and collar stand, make buttonholes and sew on buttons. Sew on buttons on the sleeves. Sew a decorative button on the corner of the placket.