Tailored Jacket Stand Collar Asymmetrical Front

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: suiting fabric made of natural or blended fibers, companion fabric. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining; 8 buttons; shoulder pads, sleeve heads.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
• From main fabric1:
  • Pocket frame – 4 pieces
  • Inner collar – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Inner collar – 1 piece
  • Pocket frame – 4 pieces

ATTENTION: Lining pieces for front and back are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the relevant pieces. Also fuse the hem allowance of the garment bottom and sleeve bottom.
2. Stitch darts on the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch center back seam, press allowances open.
3. Stitch front princess seams, press allowances towards the center.
4. Mark pocket placement on the front. Fold pocket frames in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket frame for attaching it parallel to the fold. Attach the large pocket bag to the upper frame. Attach the frames to the front. Start stitching strictly at the marked line of the front princess seam. Cut the front along the line marked on the pattern. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the frames through the resulting opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the frames so that the pressed folds of the frames meet flush. Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Attach the small pocket bag into the seam of the lower frame attachment. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
5. Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
6. Attach the collar stand to the neckline. Clip allowances at curves, press open.
7. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Attach the inner collar to the neckline. Press allowances open.
8. Fold the front facings with the collar and the front piece right sides together and stitch the front edge, collars, and the lower rounded corner, stopping 1.5 cm before the edge of the front facing. Trim allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams, press. Secure the allowances of the collar stand and inner collar attachment together along the back neckline allowance.
9. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads, sew in sleeve heads.
10. On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set in sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and facing. Press the lower edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket through the opening. Sew the opening closed.
11. On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.