Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back part - 2 pieces
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Back skirt - 1 piece with fold
- Center front part - 2 pieces
- Side front part - 2 pieces
- Front skirt - 1 piece with fold
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Lapel – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Lapel - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch the center back seam of the upper back, press allowances to the left side and overcast.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold the collar pieces wrong sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim seams at corners, clip curves. Turn collar right side out, shape and press.
- Fold the lapel pieces wrong sides together and stitch along the outer edge. Trim seams at corners, clip curves. Turn lapel right side out, shape and press.
- Place the collar and lapels with the right side of the garment and stitch. Overcast allowances and topstitch onto the main piece. Overlap the right front over the left and secure along the princess seams.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Attach the back skirt to the upper part, press allowances upwards and overcast. Attach the front skirt to the upper part, press allowances upwards and overcast.
- Overcast the left side edges separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole edge to the first mark and from the second mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the zipper. Stitch the right side, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise with the right side out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
