Fitted Zip-Front Jacket
Introducing a chic women's sewing pattern for a fitted, collarless jacket, featuring elegant style lines and a practical zip-front closure.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for a range of occasions, offering a polished yet comfortable style:
- Professional & Business Casual: a refined alternative to a blazer for the office or meetings.
- Smart Everyday Wear: Elevates casual outfits with its clean lines and structured silhouette.
- Transitional Layering: Provides warmth and style for changing seasons without bulk.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the torso with tailored seams for a flattering shape, extending to hip-length.
Neckline: Classic round, collarless neckline for a clean and modern look.
Closure: Full-length separating zipper at the center front.
Sleeves: Three-quarter length, set-in sleeves with an elbow seam for a comfortable, shaped fit.
Pockets: Two horizontal welt-style pockets with zipper closures on the lower front.
Construction: Features prominent vertical style lines on both the front and back for superior fit and shaping, achieved through multi-panel construction.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in working with multi-panel construction, zipper insertions, facings, lining, and setting in sleeves with ease.
Fabric Recommendations
For a structured yet comfortable drape, choose suiting materials that hold their shape well:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- 2 zippers (for pockets)
- 1 separating zipper (for front closure)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, then the patterns include seam allowances. If the contour is single, then the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom - 3.0 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical parts). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Upper side front – 2 pieces
- Lower side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front placket – 4 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 4 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Upper side front – 2 pieces
- Lower side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front placket – 4 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Attach the back neckline facing to the back, press allowances towards the facing.
- Attach the zipper to the upper and lower side front parts. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Attach the front neckline facing to the front, press allowances towards the facing. Attach the front placket to the front.
- Place front pieces right sides together and align edges, measuring the length of the lapels. Attach the zipper to the edge of the lapel. Fold under the lapel edges in the zipper area and press.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch and press open the sleeve elbow seam, easing the upper of the sleeve and matching notches. Press up the sleeve hem. Fold back the hem, stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
- Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch shoulder seams of inner neckline facings, press allowances open. On lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach facing to lining neckline. Attach inner front placket to lining.
- Place lining on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch the lapels and neckline. Stitching is done from the front piece side.
- Attach lining to the bottom of the jacket and the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
