Pleated Collar Belted Jacket
Introducing a sophisticated women's jacket pattern featuring a distinctive pleated stand collar, a tailored silhouette, and a stylish integrated belted waist.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for various settings, offering a polished look for:
- Professional & Business Settings: Ideal for office wear, meetings, and corporate events, exuding confidence and style.
- Smart Casual Gatherings: Elevates everyday attire with a refined and put-together aesthetic for social events or elevated casual outings.
- Formal & Special Occasions: a chic choice for dinners, theatre, or other dressy events when paired with elegant separates.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, hip-length silhouette, subtly shaped to flatter the figure and maintain a sleek, professional line.
Neckline & Collar: Features a sophisticated round stand collar with delicate pleat detailing at the front, creating a refined and elegant neckline.
Closure: a central front button closure adds a classic and functional element to the design.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves are meticulously shaped for a comfortable and tailored fit, ensuring full arm coverage.
Waist: Defined by an integrated waist belt with a distinctive decorative buckle, enhancing the silhouette and adding a touch of elegance.
Back: Shaped with vertical seams, including a center back seam and side back panels, to ensure a close and flattering fit.
Hem: a straight hemline, finishing at the hip for a contemporary yet classic length.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires familiarity with tailoring techniques, including lining insertion, stand collar construction, and setting two-piece sleeves.
Fabric Recommendations
For optimal drape and structure, we recommend selecting:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Shoulder pads
- 4 buttons
- Decorative clasp
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom - 3.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 4 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back waist tie – 1 piece
- Front waist tie – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front waist tie – 2 pieces
- Back waist tie – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Stitch the darts on the center front piece according to markings. Stitch and press open the front princess seams.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the outer neckline facings, press allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams of the inner neckline facings, press allowances open. Place the facings right sides together and stitch the upper and side edges. Clip the allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the facing right side out, press. Attach the facing to the garment.
- Stitch the side seams of the waist tie pieces, press allowances open. Press the longitudinal edges to the wrong side. Place the waist tie on the jacket and topstitch 0.1 cm from the folds.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve, easing the upper sleeve and matching notches. Press up the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem, stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the front facings to the lining.
- Place the front facing with lining on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch the front edges and neckline, positioning the neckline facing between the main fabric and the lining. Stitching is done from the front piece side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the jacket and the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- On the right front piece, overlock buttonholes, on the left front piece, sew on buttons. Attach the decorative clasp.
