Pleated Lapel Belted Jacket
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a chic, fitted jacket featuring elegant pleated lapels, a single button closure, and a complementary tie belt that accentuates the waist.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is designed for sophisticated styling across various occasions:
- Office & Business Casual: Adds a polished and professional touch to work attire.
- Special Occasions: Elevates an outfit for dinners, semi-formal events, or gatherings.
- Spring & Summer Layering: a lightweight yet structured outer layer perfect for transitional weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted, hip-length jacket with a cinched waist defined by a tie belt, flowing into a subtle peplum hem.
Neckline & Lapel: Features a graceful V-neckline framed by softly pleated, shawl-style lapels that create a flattering drape.
Front Detail: Artfully arranged pleats radiate from the shoulder and bust area, adding texture and refined shaping to the bodice.
Closure: Secured with a single button at the waist, complemented by a wide, self-fabric tie belt for adjustable shaping.
Sleeves: Long, classic two-piece set-in sleeves provide a smooth and tailored fit.
Back: Features vertical seaming for a contoured fit through the back, with the tie belt wrapping around to define the waist.
Hem: a gently flared, peplum-style hem adds a touch of elegance and movement.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern involves techniques such as pleat formation, precise collar construction, lining application, and setting in tailored sleeves.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose suiting fabrics that offer both structure and a graceful drape to highlight the design details:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 2 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve head rolls
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining: center front, back neckline facing, front facing.
Attention: lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch back princess seams, press allowances open. Stitch center back seam, press allowances open.
- Stitch pleats on the front according to markings, spread allowances to both sides and press. Stitch front princess seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch collar seam, press allowances open. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back. Clip the shoulder seam allowance on the front and attach the collar to the back neckline, press allowances open.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Insert shoulder pads, sew in sleeve heads.
- Stitch collar seam on front facings, press allowances open. Stitch shoulder edges of front facings and facing, clipping allowances at corners. Attach collar to facing neckline, press allowances open. On lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Attach lining to front facings and facing.
- Place front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch the front edges and collar. Attach lining to the bottom of the garment and sleeve bottom. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening. Secure the allowances of the outer and inner collar attachments together. Close the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, overlock buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons.
- Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Trim allowances at corners, turn the belt right side out, shape and press. Close the opening.
