Pleated Lapel Belted Jacket
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a chic, fitted jacket featuring a grown-on shawl-style collar with soft shoulder pleats, a two-button closure, full lining, and a separate tie belt that accentuates the waist.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is designed for sophisticated styling across various occasions:
- Office & Business Casual: Adds a polished and professional touch to work attire.
- Special Occasions: Elevates an outfit for dinners, semi-formal events, or gatherings.
- Spring & Summer Layering: a lightweight yet structured outer layer perfect for transitional weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted, hip-length jacket shaped by princess seams, with the waist cinched by a separate tie belt.
Neckline & Lapel: Features a graceful V-neckline framed by a shawl-style collar cut in one with the center fronts and joined by a seam at the center back.
Front Detail: Stitched pleats at the front shoulder, together with front princess seams, add soft fullness and refined shaping to the bodice.
Closure: Fastens with two buttons and buttonholes, complemented by a separate self-fabric tie belt tied in a bow.
Sleeves: Long, classic two-piece set-in sleeves provide a smooth and tailored fit.
Back: Features a center back seam, princess seams and darts for a contoured fit, with the tie belt wrapping around to define the waist.
Lining: the jacket and sleeves are fully lined for a clean finish.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern involves techniques such as pleat formation, precise collar construction, lining application, and setting in tailored sleeves.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose suiting fabrics that offer both structure and a graceful drape to highlight the design details:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 2 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve head rolls
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Waistband (tie belt) – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front, Back Neckline Facing, Center Front Facing.
Attention: lining pieces are cut from the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front, Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facing pieces.
- Stitch the darts on the back, press the dart depths towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam, press the allowances open.
- Stitch the pleats on the Center Front according to the markings, spread the pleat depths to both sides and press. Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front), press the allowances open.
- Stitch the center back seam of the grown-on collar, press the allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams, press the allowances towards the back. Clip the shoulder seam allowance on the front at the neck point and stitch the collar into the back neckline, press the allowances open.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press it open. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sew in the sleeve heads.
- Stitch the center back collar seam on the Center Front Facings, press the allowances open. Stitch the shoulder edges of the Center Front Facings to the Back Neckline Facing, clipping the allowances at the corners. Stitch the facing collar into the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing, press the allowances open. Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve. Attach the lining to the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing.
- Place the facing on the jacket, right sides together, pin and stitch the front edges and collar. Attach the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the lining sleeve. Tack together the neckline seam allowances of the upper and under collar. Close the opening in the lining sleeve.
- Make the buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
- Fold the Waistband (tie belt) lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Trim allowances at corners, turn the belt right side out, shape and press. Close the opening.
