Pattern

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper; fusible interfacing.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the lower edges of the back and front pieces – 3.0 cm. Slit allowance – 6 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Back waistband - 2 pieces
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Front waistband – 1 piece
  • Side upper front part - 2 pieces
  • Central upper front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing - 2 pieces
  • Front trim - 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing - 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to facing pieces.
2. Stitch darts on back and lower front pieces, press allowances towards the center.
3. Attach back waistband to upper back part, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast. Attach lower back part to back waistband, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
4. Overcast the center back edge separately on each piece. On the left central back part, cut 5 cm along the vertical edge of the slit. On both central back pieces, fuse interfacing to the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left part along the slit fold line, on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Overcast the slit allowances. Stitch the center back edge from the mark to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right part. Press open the center seam allowances, press the slit allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
5. Attach front waistband to lower front part, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
6. Overcast the upper edge of the central upper front part, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches. Overcast the outer edge of the front facing. Stitch the princess seams of the front, inserting the central part between the side part and the front facing, press allowances away from the center and overcast. Turn out and secure the facing.
7. Press the front trim in half lengthwise, right side out. Lay the right piece on the left and secure them together. Lay the trim on the upper front part and secure along the edges. Attach the front waistband to the upper front part, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
8. Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
9. Overcast the lower allowance of the back neckline facing. Fold the back neckline facing with the main piece right sides together and stitch the upper edge exactly to the marked shoulder seam line. Clip allowances.
10. Stitch shoulder seams, placing them between the back neckline facing and the main piece. Press allowances towards the back, overcast. Turn pieces right side out, press. Attach the center back seam allowances of the facing to the zipper tape.
11. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
12. Overcast the lower edge of the dress, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.