Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; a concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom — 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Upper center front part - 2 pieces
- Upper side front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part - 1 piece on fold
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Bridge — 1 piece
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the darts of the upper back part, press the fullness towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, overcast the allowances and press upwards.
- Overcast the center back seam separately. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline edge to the first mark and from the second mark to the bottom, press the allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front, press the allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Stitch the seam of the integrated collar, press the allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams, clipping the front piece at the corner, press the allowances towards the back and overcast. Stitch the collar into the neckline, press the allowances towards the collar.
- Stitch the seam of the integrated collar facings, press the allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings, clipping the front facing piece at the corner, press the allowances open. Stitch the collar into the facing neckline, press the allowances towards the collar. Overcast the outer edge. Fold the front facing with the dress right sides together and stitch the edges of the front opening and collar. Turn the front facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure the shoulder seams of the front facing to the shoulder seams of the dress. Overlap the right front piece over the left and secure at the lower edge.
- Overcast the short sides of the bridge, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Fold the bridge in half, right side out. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, inserting the bridge, overcast the allowances and press upwards.
- Stitch the side seams, press the allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch the sleeve seams from the main fabric, press the allowances towards the back and overcast. Stitch the sleeve seams from the lining fabric, press the allowances towards the back and overcast. Stitch a gathering stitch along the lower edge of the sleeve with loosened thread and gather.
- Stitch the cuff into a ring, press the allowances open. Press the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out. Fold the main and lining sleeve pieces, aligning them at the lower edge. Insert the cuff between the pieces and stitch. Turn the sleeve to the right side, align the main fabric with the lining at the sleeve cap and then treat as one piece. Stitch the sleeves into the armholes, aligning the notches. Press and overcast the allowances.
- Overcast the lower edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Cut a strip from the main fabric 2.5 cm wide and 150 cm long. Fold the strip lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn the strip to the right side, straighten, press. Fold the raw edge inwards and topstitch. Thread the resulting cord through the bridge.
