Pattern

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; thin shoulder pads; 4 buttons; decorative trim (approximate length indicated on the sleeve pattern piece).

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Seam allowance for the upper edge of the pocket – 2 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Pocket – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Front lining – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

  ATTENTION: center back and center front pieces from lining fabric are cut deducting the width of the back neckline facing and front facing, respectively.

• From fusible interfacing:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

  Also, interface the hem allowances of the garment bottom and sleeve hem.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing. Apply an additional fusible stay tape along the back neckline.
2. Stitch the dart on the center back. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
3. Stitch the dart on the center front. Press the dart upwards. Stitch and press open the front princess seam.
4. Serge the pocket allowances. Press the upper allowance to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the side and lower allowances to the wrong side. Place the pockets on the front according to markings and topstitch.
5. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
6. Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline facing and front facings. Fold the front facings with the garment and stitch the front edges and neckline in one seam. Trim allowances at corners, clip curves, turn the garment right side out, and press. Topstitch the front edge allowance to the front facing. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Press the bottom of the garment.
7. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve, easing the upper sleeve and matching notches. Press the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem, stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
8. Set in the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
9. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing.
10. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
11. On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons.
12. Topstitch decorative trim along the neckline, front edge, bottom of the garment, and sleeve hem.