Fitted Collarless Jacket
This sophisticated women's jacket pattern features a fitted, collarless silhouette with an elegant button-front closure, functional patch pockets, and tailored princess seams for a polished and flattering finish.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is designed for a range of occasions, making it an ideal choice for:
- Chic Daytime Layer: Perfect for adding a refined touch to everyday outfits, from casual to smart.
- Smart Casual Office: Elevates professional ensembles with a polished yet comfortable aesthetic.
- Elegant Evening Accent: a stylish outer layer for dinner or semi-formal gatherings, offering warmth and sophistication.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted, hip-length jacket, expertly shaped with tailored princess seams and darts on both the front and back for a flattering contour.
Neckline: Features a classic collarless round neckline, providing a clean and elegant frame.
Closure: Designed with a single-breasted front and four functional button closures.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves ensure a refined and tailored arm line.
Pockets: Includes two functional patch pockets with gracefully rounded lower corners, positioned at the front hip.
Details: Decorative trim edges the neckline, front opening, hem, sleeve hems and pocket openings. The jacket is fully lined.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires confident sewing skills, including precise handling of princess seams, setting two-piece sleeves, constructing a full lining, and applying decorative trim accurately.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose structured woven fabrics with good body to achieve the desired silhouette and drape:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Thin shoulder pads
- 4 buttons
- Decorative trim (approximate length is marked on the sleeve pattern)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Seam allowance for the upper edge of the pocket – 2 cm. Jacket hem and sleeve hem allowance – 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
Attention: the Center Back and Center Front lining pieces are cut minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facing, respectively.
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Also, interface the jacket hem and sleeve hem allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the pieces. Apply an additional fusible stay tape along the back neckline.
- Stitch the dart on each Center Back. Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back) and press open. Stitch the center back seam and press open.
- Stitch the dart on each Center Front and press it upwards. Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front) and press open.
- Serge the Pocket allowances. Press the upper allowance to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the side and lower allowances to the wrong side. Place the pockets on the fronts according to the markings and topstitch.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams joining the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings and press open. Place the facing on the jacket right sides together and stitch the front edges and neckline in one continuous seam. Trim the allowances at the corners, clip the curves, turn the jacket right side out and press. Understitch the front edge seam allowance to the facing, 0.2 cm from the seam. Press up the jacket hem.
- Stitch the back (elbow) sleeve seam, easing the Upper Sleeve and matching the notches, and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Unfold the hem, stitch the front sleeve seam and press open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches and easing the sleeve cap. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Stitch the seams of the lining and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the left sleeve's elbow seam for turning. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Stitch the opening closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons onto the left front.
- Topstitch the decorative trim along the neckline, front edges, jacket hem and sleeve hems.
