Hooded Jacket with Ruched Pockets and Zippered Sleeves
Discover a women's hooded jacket sewing pattern, featuring unique ruched patch pockets, practical zippered sleeve cuffs, and a comfortable, semi-fitted silhouette.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for various occasions, making it an ideal choice for:
- Casual Outings: Perfect for everyday wear, from running errands to meeting friends in a relaxed setting.
- Layering Piece: An excellent transitional jacket for varying temperatures, easily layered over tops for added warmth and style.
- Smart-Casual Events: Adds a relaxed yet stylish touch to an elevated casual ensemble, pairing well with jeans or tailored trousers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted through the body with a comfortable ease, extending to a mid-thigh length.
Hood: Features an integrated three-piece hood, providing warmth and a contemporary touch.
Closure: a full-length separable zipper runs down the center front, allowing for adjustable coverage.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves are finished with functional non-separable zippers at the cuffs, adding a modern detail.
Pockets: Distinctive rounded patch pockets on the front feature delicate ruching and are accented with contrast trim details at the opening.
Back: The back is thoughtfully constructed with a curved yoke and multiple vertical seams, ensuring a shaped and flattering fit.
Hem: a gently shaped hemline is slightly longer at the back and includes adjustable side tabs secured with buttons for an adaptable fit.
Length: Designed to reach mid-thigh, offering ample coverage while maintaining a contemporary profile.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern involves working with multi-paneled construction, inserting various zippers, constructing an integrated hood, and managing detailed ruched pocket assemblies.
Fabric Recommendations
Opt for low-stretch knit fabrics made from natural or blended fibers that provide both comfort and a structured drape:
- Sweater knits
- Ponté knits
- Textured knits (e.g., bouclé, ottoman)
- Stable jersey knits
Additional Supplies
- Knit fusible interfacing
- 1 separable zipper (for front closure)
- 2 non-separable zippers (for sleeve cuffs)
- 4 buttons (for hem tabs)
- Contrast fabric for pocket trim
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Sleeve hem allowance – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 4 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Middle front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center hood – 1 piece
- Facing – 2 pieces
- Strap – 2 pieces
- Pocket placket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Lower back – 1 piece
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Attach the back yoke to the back, press seam allowances upwards, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the side and lower back parts, press seam allowances open and serge. Attach the side and lower back parts to the back, press seam allowances towards the side seam and serge.
- Cut the pocket placket from binding fabric, press it lengthwise in half with the right side out. Shape the binding to the pocket opening.
- Place the pocket bag on the right side of the middle front, insert the binding between them and stitch around the pocket opening. Fold the pocket bag to the wrong side, press. Place the detail on the middle front and secure along the edges. Stitch the pocket bag edges, serge seam allowances.
- Attach the front yoke to the front, press seam allowances upwards, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the side and lower front parts, press seam allowances open and serge. Attach the side and lower front parts to the front, press seam allowances towards the side seam and serge.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch side seams from armhole to notch, clip seam allowances at the notch, press open and serge.
- Fold the placket lengthwise in half with right sides together and stitch the lower corner. Turn the placket right side out, straighten, press. Serge the inner edges of the facings. Place the outer of the right placket with the right front, right sides together, and stitch. Attach the right facing to the inner of the placket, inserting the separating zipper between the pieces. Place the outer of the left placket with the left front, right sides together, insert the separating zipper between the pieces and stitch. Attach the left facing to the inner of the placket.
- Attach the side parts of the hood to the center, press seam allowances towards the center and serge. Serge the inner edge of the hood facing. Place the facing with the hood and stitch the outer edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side, press. Topstitch the facing to the hood.
- Set the hood into the neckline, press seam allowances, serge. Attach the facings into the hood attachment seam. Turn the garment right side out, press.
- Stitch the seam of the upper sleeve, press seam allowances and serge. Attach the non-separating zipper to the lower sleeve, forming a loop. Stitch the upper and lower sleeve parts, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, press seam allowances and serge.
- Serge the upper edges of the inner lower back and front parts. Place the pieces with the garment and stitch the lower edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, fold the inner parts to the wrong side and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Serge the lower sleeve edge, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the strap lengthwise in half with right sides together and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the strap right side out, close the opening. Topstitch the strap to the side seam, sew on buttons.
